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Of Mice And Men 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 10 pitches, 1100', Grade IV
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13 [details]
FA: April 5, 2015 Jeremy Devine and Sam Bishop
New Route: Yes
Season: Spring/Fall
Page Views: 577
Submitted By: Jeremy Devine on Apr 15, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: Upper pitches seen from large midway ledge. Pitch ...

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Fun and exciting climbing in a remote part of Red Rock. Reminiscent of Rainbow Buttress but with an even more remote feel. Some loose rock, but we tried to clean as much obvious choss as possible. Still worth the second trying to rip off loose holds on a couple pitches. Should actually clean up well with subsequent ascents. Worth doing if you've done a lot of the Red Rock adventure routes and want more!

Pitch 1. 30 meters up bulge to comfortable belay ledge. 5.4
Pitch 2. 45 meters up bulge in left, thin rps and 4 inch piece. 5.6
Pitch 3. 50 meters. Middle crack of 3 different ones. Belay on ledge on left. 3 and 4 inch pro for anchor. 5.7
Pitch 4. 15 meter micro pitch. Go up unprotected slab off belay. Belay from big crack on ledge. 3 to 4 inch pro for belay. 5.4

Move belay across large ledge system to the base of a low rock quality corner crack.

Pitch 5. 45 meters. Up through bad friable rock. Protects okay. Belay on large ledge. 5.9 PG-13
Pitch 6. 30 meters. Up and right to large second ledge without much veg directly below headwall. 5.6
Pitch 7. 60 meters. Run out start on good rock, pass through varnish on left using #3 cam in hueco for pro. Continue up through middle of headwall on best looking crack. Belay takes finger sized and smaller plus a .75 cam. 5.8
Pitch 8. Micro 5easy pitch to next large face.
Pitch 9. 60 meters. Cross gap using best looking crack. Start is 5.7. Cross into crack on left after 20 feet. Protects better than it looks. Becomes easy slab.
Pitch 10. 30 meters. 5.5 slab.
Scramble and micro 5.3 pitch to summit.

Location 

This route starts at the base of a prominent buttress on the North side of Windy Peak, to the West and up-canyon of A Midsummer Night's Scheme. Find the easiest terrain that trends up and left from the base using intermittent cracks. First pitch starts well right of gully/chimney system in buttress. 1.5 hour approach.

Walk off following hiker cairns with 1 short 30 foot rap off tree with yellow sling shortly after leaving summit of buttress. Trend north and east into the upper reaches of the wash. Some wash scrub brush shwacking and easy downclimbing leads back to the lower wash. Does not quite pass by the start, but would be a short hike back up to the base to retrieve stashed gear. Took us 3 hours from summit to hike back to car.

Protection 

Single rack to 4 inches. Double in .75 to 3 inch. No fixed protection. Most cruxes are well protected, but be prepared to run it out on easy terrain, and pull a couple harder moves where you'd fall a ways before your last piece and it wouldn't be fun. Let me know if you're interested in repeating the route and I'll try to spray you down with as much beta as you want.


Photos of Of Mice And Men Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Of Mice And Men buttress seen from the approach wa...
BETA PHOTO: Of Mice And Men buttress seen from the approach wa...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up pitch 8 from the belay.
BETA PHOTO: Looking up pitch 8 from the belay.
Rock Climbing Photo: Sam following the last section of pitch 7.
Sam following the last section of pitch 7.
Rock Climbing Photo: Sam leading off on pitch 6.
Sam leading off on pitch 6.
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 7, the 60 meter headwall pitch. The deep cra...
BETA PHOTO: Pitch 7, the 60 meter headwall pitch. The deep cra...

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