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Of Mice and Men 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 55'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Tony Bubb & (TooTall) Tim Davis, 6/08
New Route: Yes
Season: Faces West
Page Views: 291
Submitted By: Tony B on Jun 23, 2008

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  • Description 

    Your enjoyment of this route may depend upon your love of the wide, but it is such a mellow climb that it should be no problem where it is wide. Any difficulty would be more likely encountered at the bulge up top. Perhaps this is even a good route to introduce a climber to wide cracks on, and familiarize oneself or others with arm bars, chicken wings and knee-locks before one gets on a climb where difficulty actually requires it.
    Start with a hand-to-fist section, up past some wide crack in a left-facing corner, then up over a small awkward bulge and to the top. Belay from a cord or the rope on large boulders up top.


    This is the right most of the 3 obvious crack/corner systems on the West Face of the crag 'East Of Avalon.' Because of the wide crack, it can be seen from far away.


    A #3, 4, and 5 C4 Camalot plus a few nuts will sew it up, though creative gear in smaller sized will do. Wide gear is also useful on the 'Crack Land' wall on Avalon, where you probably approached this crag from.

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