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Oedipus 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R

   
Type:  Trad, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R [details]
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Page Views: 52
Submitted By: Evan Wisheropp on May 7, 2017

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Description 

Fun alternate start to Up On Top. Climb a frictioned runnel a few feet right of the arete. You can place a few small/medium cams 22' off the deck. When its clear you won't be getting any pro for another 15', move left to clip a bolt (clip it long), and continue up the arete. The route then merges with Up On Top.

You can easily skip the rest of the bolts after the crux bolt and continue on gear. We then topped out to a gear anchor and walked off. Continuing on gear is a good option for anyone wanting to work on their gear leads.

Location 

A few feet right of the arete right of Up On Top.

Protection 

.3-2"


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By Nick Black
From: Arcata, CA
Oct 8, 2017
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R

Really good friction slab route. Gear is crap...

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