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5. Slabs
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beware of the Dog (Mid-Climb Variation) T 
Blockade Direct ? T 
Cirrus T 
Condescender T 
Condescending (Mid-Climb Variation) T 
Consolation Prize T 
Falling Aspirations T 
Fleabitten (Mid-Climb Variation) T 
Indented Slab (a "Mid-Cliff" Slab), The T 
Lakeview T 
Lima Bean T 
Micron T 
Odyssey of an Artichoke T 
Slip o' Fools T 
Snooky T 
Stretched On Your Grave TR 
unknown T 
Wag, The T 
Weissners Butress T 
Weissners Dike T 

Odyssey of an Artichoke 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 500', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: FA: Chris Ellms, Chris Rowins, and Steve Schneider 8/74 FFA: Jeff Burns, Stoney Middleton, and Steve Schneider Summer 1975
Page Views: 1,161
Submitted By: John Halupowski on May 17, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Description 

A great 5.10 friction adventure on the Cannon slabs.


P.1 Climb 30' of the Consolation Prize ramp then up a 4-6" crack and left to belay ledge (2 bolts). 60' 5.7

P.2 Layback up the arch for 35', then climb the overlap (pin). Climb left past 2 bolts to a small ledge (2 bolts). 100' 5.10

P.3 Move right and up the overlap, and over it at the corner. Climb overlaps for about 60' to a bolt, then up left past another bolt to a small slab. Head left and belay at the base of a layback flake. 140' 5.9

P.4 Climb flake, then up right to an open book corner. Pull overlap at a thin crack to the belay at the base of a slab. 100' 5.8

P.5 Diagonal right up slab, then back left under a small overlap to Lunch Ledge. 100' 5.6

Finish as desired

Location 

Start on the same ledge as for Snooky and Consolation Prize, left of the blank Condescender slab.

Protection 

Standard Cannon rack with 2 Screamers for the old bolts


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By Andrei
Jun 29, 2014

Couldn't find the pin on the second pitch and the bolts are all flattened. Also the variation to the right which is a nice 5.9 friction slab the 1 out of the 2 bolts that protect the climb has the hanger sliced.
By ANM
Jul 31, 2014

Andrei, this climb was damaged when the old man fell down... as were most of the routes in the vicinity. I'm not surprised that the bolts on P2 were flattened, they probably were due for replacement in any case. The pin may or may not have been hit as well, for what it's worth it was up and right a bit from where you surmount the overlap. If still there, it would be about 40 years old! All that being said, i've seen at least two parties climb the first two pitches since the big rockfall. The third pitch which used to be quite nice was really damaged..
Like most of the slab routes, it could use some TLC, ie. cleaning and hardware replacement.

Also: P1 is really 5.8

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