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Buttress Two (Bond Buttress)
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Octopussy 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Charley Graham
Page Views: 230
Submitted By: Steven Lucarelli on Aug 13, 2015

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Charley "Flash" Graham on the FFA of Oct...

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route is one of the test pieces of the cliff, but be warned, its not your typical desert fare. Start by working your way into an awkward squeeze with thin gear for pro. Continue up a short finger crack that eventually pinches shut forcing you into a hard stemming section past the first bolt. Take a nice long rest before launching up a pumpy flake with flared pods and tricky cam placements. The last 10' (which I thought was the crux) is protected by two bolts and requires more hard stemming and big reaches. The routes not over till you clip the anchor!

Location 

This is on the right side of the buttress and very obvious with three protection bolts.

Protection 

00 C3 to #1 C4. Go heavy on the small cams, especially the 00, 0 sizes. .2 C4's work great if you have them and blue and green Aliens are also nice to have.


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