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YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 66
Submitted By: Steven Lucarelli on Apr 18, 2012

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>


Octopus is route #15b (unknown? 140') in the new Indian Creek Guide, but its way taller than 140'. It starts by squeezing up a fun chimney with ample face holds that can be protected by a #6 Camalot and a slung chockstone. Once above the chockstone a #1 Camalot crack can be found inside the chimney which is the same splitter crack that leads to the anchors. Thin hands and some wide fingers will get you to a nice rest ledge at the bottom of the crux. Plug in a couple finger size pieces and layback up a steep left angling flake with a hard topout. Finish with a nice overhanging hand crack to the anchors.


About 100 yards right of Neutron Dance. Look for a right facing corner with a chimney and a wavy splitter hand crack above that goes forever!


1 #6 Camalot, 3 or 4 each .5 through #2 Camalot. 1 or 2 #3 Friends for the top are nice. Two ropes are needed to rap back down. Anchor is bolts with webbing.

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