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Octopus' Gardens 

YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: late 70s by Don Garrett and Ron Vardanega
Page Views: 274
Submitted By: GizzardJones on Aug 3, 2016

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Octopus' Gardens


Both cracks 10a/b, just the right crack 5.10c/d.


Located in The Octopus Garden, under the main roof. Right of the two bolted routes.


Standard Mosquito Coast Rack

Photos of Octopus' Gardens Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Octopus' Gardens
Octopus' Gardens
Rock Climbing Photo: Octopus' Gardens. Two Bolt Anchor & Rap Rings ...
Octopus' Gardens. Two Bolt Anchor & Rap Rings ...

Comments on Octopus' Gardens Add Comment
Show which comments
By GizzardJones
From: Rancho Cordova,CA
Aug 3, 2016

Amazing short stout route. I loved the whole thing. Big props to the FA party. Does anybody have any information on the route and history? Thanks.
By Salamanizer suchoski
From: Vacaville Ca.
Aug 5, 2016

I don't remember who climbed it first. I talked to the guy once but I can't remember who it was. I aided the route back around 2004. Is my very (now) rare, flat aluminum head still in there about three quarters of the way up? I lead the thing free sometime around 2006 but don't remember it being that easy. That thing far off the right with the "butt cheeks" was hella harder, never did get that one free.
By bob branscomb
From: Lander, WY
Aug 18, 2016

Actually, the route I Dig Fig goes up the two very steep disconnected corners left of the double crack system in the photos. I did the FA in about 1979 with Rick Holmes, with pins and a hook...remember it being A3+ or A4, one of the last placements being a knifeblade driven straight up half-way.

The double cracks in the photos are the start of Octopus' Gardens, 10a/b if you use both cracks and 10c/d if you just use the right hand crack. FA in the late 70s by Don Garrett and Ron Vardanega.

Continuing above the ledge at the top and to the right of the double cracks is pretty knarly flared off-widthing/layback pukefest struggle through the big roof. Don Garrett led it in the early 80s. He also led the direct face approach on the outside of the gold pillar below the ledge, called The Golden Road. It was pretty hard then, 11+ and is perhaps harder now that a hold broke. I couldn't even follow it on the FA, and I somehow remember it as pretty much unprotected.
By GizzardJones
From: Rancho Cordova,CA
Aug 24, 2016

Salamanizer & Bob,

Awesome history. Thanks so much for sharing your info on this area and helping with correct beta.
I have updated the climb based on your comments. Thanks so much.
Love this place.

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