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The Fang
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October Light 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Jim Brink, Joe Varella
New Route: Yes
Season: spring summer fall
Page Views: 161
Submitted By: Jim Brink on Oct 10, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: October Light dihedral on the NW face of The Fang.

Normal access is closed. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The crux is probably 5.9 but is only the first 8 feet off the ground and well-protected. The rest can be done in two pitches (85' and 65') or one long pitch. There is lichen in places, but use will fix that. The climbing is varied, imaginative and fun.

Begin in the obvious alcove below bolts for 2 sport routes. Climb the tricky start, and hand traverse up and right to a strange squeeze at the apex. Continue up the v-slot to a belay (or not) at the base of a chimney. Climb the chimney, and continue up the outside of the wide crack (stemming not OW) on to easier ground to the top.

Location 

Begin on the west face of the fang in the same alcove with a roof where 2 sport routes begin.

Descend 4th class ground to the south and west. The route can be seen from bottom to top standing 40 feet out from the cliff. It is a huge, right-facing corner.

Protection 

All trad. There is no fixed pro or anchors of any kind. A #6 Camalot or similar sized Bigbro would be helpful.


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