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Hueco: V8 Font: 7B

Type:  Boulder, 25'
Original:  Hueco: V8 Font: 7B [details]
FA: Philip Scoles
Season: Fall and Spring, Summer hot.
Page Views: 2,911
Submitted By: Philip Scoles on Nov 9, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Gaining the lip on Octernal


One of the most popular boulders in the garden. Start low in the cave, left hand sloper and right hand on a small crimp SDS. Grunge your way up a hard v7/8 to a small heel hook rest. Then traverse left on a rail system to the left most side of the boulder, traverse around 20 ft to the left after completing the initial cave.
If you start standing with both hands on the large undercling, the line goes at about V5/6.

One of the 5 hard lines left at sweethome.


In the very center of the garden, you will pass a large tree and enter a cave like area surrounded by boulders. Octenal is on the backside of this huge house sized boulder. One of the best a sweethome.


Pads, at least 2 or 3 and a spotter.

Photos of Octernal Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Starting move on Octernal
Starting move on Octernal
Rock Climbing Photo: Octurnal.
BETA PHOTO: Octurnal.
Rock Climbing Photo: Resting before the traverse on Octernal
Resting before the traverse on Octernal
Rock Climbing Photo: SICK!

Comments on Octernal Add Comment
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By Baghby
May 8, 2013

I never really found the sloper left hand or the right hand crimp. We started from the really good double under cling - to a big left hand move up to the lip. This makes the problem around hard v5 easy v6. I think the v9 rating is a bit exaggerated. Awesome route though!!
By Dylan Colon
From: Eugene, OR
Jun 20, 2013

Those holds are there, just lower than the big undercling by a few moves. They are reachable if you are sitting on the ground. While I haven't sent yet, this version feels like a hard V7 to me. Hopefully I'll get back there soon to finish it and get some pictures of the start.
By cstorms
From: North Bend, OR
Dec 5, 2013

I found this video on youtube.. is this guy (@1:30) using the right start holds?

By anewton
Jan 27, 2014

The original name for the problem - Tom's Psychedelic Trip - is graded as V8, which is still a bit inflated if you ask me.

I think it goes more at V6/7.

Cstorms, he's using the right starting holds in the video. Terrible left hand and ok right crimp. Worst holds on the boulder by far.
By cstorms
From: North Bend, OR
Apr 13, 2014

thanks anewton
By Andrew Child
From: Santa Clara
Sep 7, 2016
rating: V8 7B

This route feels like V7/8 if you use the low starting holds. Almost every move is easier than the last so you can still have a lot of fun working the higher parts of the problem even if you can climb the grade.

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