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YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Arjun Heimsath
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 701
Submitted By: arjunmh on Nov 25, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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Jimbo on the onsight

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First climb set in The Refuge. Name derived from the James Bond movie, "Octopussy." First climbed ground up in a wandering way while rope-soloing and searching for good gear placements. Two subsequent leads of the climb convinced AMH to add the bolts to insure a straight line through the crux of the bulges, which increased the difficulty of the climb. Original placements were all horizontal and the cruxes barely protected with small cams. Bolts protect the cruxes, but climb and belay carefully as the most difficult bulge requires very committing moves to clear.


The centerpiece of the area, see map.


Small gear with some medium placements and 3 bolts protect the crux bulges.

Photos of Octabulgey Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Protection used in the FA.
BETA PHOTO: Protection used in the FA.
Rock Climbing Photo: Hanna nearing the top on an early ascent.
Hanna nearing the top on an early ascent.
Rock Climbing Photo: AMH on early ascent prior to bolt placements.
BETA PHOTO: AMH on early ascent prior to bolt placements.

Comments on Octabulgey Add Comment
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By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Nov 25, 2011

This is one of the most unusual and fun routes I have ever done in QC. Eight bulge/roof moves in one climb - how crazy is that??? Kudos to Arjun for his bold ground up, solo, gear only onsight first ascent. Even with the bolts the climb still is committing in spots. Very well done!
By Ben Beard
From: Superior, AZ
Feb 17, 2012

I started off on the right on a small ledge and was able to get a 60 meter rope to reach (tie knots). For some gear beta, I used a #1 and #2 c3, blue tcu, and a #3 c4. Depends how you like it. The three bolts give great confidence, and the ledges underneath the tough bulges allow you to take a look at the moves, get a rest, and pull 'em!
By manuel rangel
From: Tempe, Arizona
Oct 30, 2012

A very committing route. My protection did not inspire confidence, especially the pieces below the 4th bolt. I found better placements above the ledge but just passed by and climbed on.

It could use more traffic to help with cleaning the route. I knocked off a bit of rock.
By arjunmh
From: Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
Dec 22, 2013

A long time since I've done this and it was very cool to get back on it. Definitely committing and some small pieces (I used a 0 and 1 C3, but blue and black Aliens would be ok) are key to a calmer ascent. 60 m rope no problem.
By KayLeann Leann
From: Tempe, AZ
Feb 17, 2014

Such a fun route! Loved the power moves on the bulges. Used a 70m but it's possible to use a 60 m if you use the ledge. The three bolts are perfect for protecting the ledges.

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