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Ocean's Eleven 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Dirk & Edgar (2003)
Page Views: 63
Submitted By: Nate Ball on Aug 21, 2016

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Hiroshi in the business - photo by Lou

Bolt Failures - Donations Help MORE INFO >>>

Description 

P1 (5.11): Start up the great features with holds you kinda have to search for. Place gear from what solid stances you can find. Make a few more tricky moves and then enjoy a short easy section to a small ledge. Make a tough pull up to the horizontal with a roof to your left. Scope holds to the left (above the roof) then pull hard through the crux - tough sequence to figure out at first. Scamper up the final few feet on incredible features to a great ledge.

P2 (5.10-): Hop up to the higher ledge then climb the brief dihedral finger crack. Stem out then start climbing the thin broken crack - nuts are handy, for once. At a slight alcove, move straight up or step out left again, then back right. Shake out a solid horizontal before moving up the sweet final locks of the finger crack. It's intuitive to try to mantle onto the ledge, but don't cheat yourself (it's actually quite precarious anyway). Instead, move out right along a thin horizontal then pull on a crimp and some nubbins over the lip up to the tiny anchor ledge. Wild and airy finish!

Location 

Last line of old bolts on "Euro Wall". The last ledge before you have to descend to the "Catwalk". Ends at a big ledge left of some dark, vegetated chimneys.

Protection 

Gear to 1.5"
Titanium anchors


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