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Ocean Overhang T,TR 

Ocean Overhang 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Unknown
Season: Dry Season
Page Views: 98
Submitted By: Evan Wisheropp on Mar 3, 2015

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Looking out from the middle of the offwidth overha...

Description 

This description is for the huge overhanging dihedral with a gaping offwidth inside.

This isn't just a climb, it is an adventure! Its history of being climbed is unknown and highly unlikely. I've been up it several times and once with a scrub brush. It is getting cleaner each time, but it still comes with a little dirt.

Once you work your way up and left past all of the ledges and boring flaky rock (5.5) you are rewarded with one of the best cracks in Humboldt County. After the last ledge, the enormous overhang looms above. From here on up, if you fall on top rope, you'll take a massive swing out into space and will not be making it back to the cliff; it is all or nothing.

The 50 foot overhang is strenuous and unrelenting offwidth using everything from fists, forearm jams, arm bars, and some welcome arm locks. You will pass several bulges, a few of them pretty sizable, and all of them providing an obstacle. Pass the larger roofs in the beginning with exciting chimney moves and good jams. After the bigger roofs, alternate between a jammed knee and stemming.

Breathtaking amount of air all around you on this route!!

Location 

To access the top, find the trail that turns west off of the Rim Trail, at the first fork, turn right. Follow this overgrown trail up a hill, past some caves, and back downhill. Turn right and walk below a 20' rock and land on a grassy ledge on the just below the headwall on the southern side. Climb across a 3rd class crossing below the headwall. On your right (east) you will notice a fist crack and offwidth, these are directly above the route. Set an anchor in these or equalize the two larger trees with a separate climbing rope or your rope won't land in the correct spot. If leading, you will want to set up your anchor first so you don’t have to climb over the dirt mound at the top.

Protection 

Edit: The gear anchor at the ledge halfway up is really not great, it's best best to climb as one pitch. If you do it in one pitch, don't place gear on the lower ramp and clip any gear at the upper ramp ~8' long or you would have impossible rope drag.

Gear:
doubles 3-7"


Photos of Ocean Overhang Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Nick plugging my Valley Giant, I love that cam.
Nick plugging my Valley Giant, I love that cam.
Rock Climbing Photo: Nick S. onsighting Ocean Overhang.
Nick S. onsighting Ocean Overhang.
Rock Climbing Photo: Sweet jams!!
Sweet jams!!
Rock Climbing Photo: This climb is full of incredible moves, amazing!!
This climb is full of incredible moves, amazing!!
Rock Climbing Photo: Panoramic view of the offwidth from the rappel. In...
Panoramic view of the offwidth from the rappel. In...
Rock Climbing Photo: The overhang doesn't look too big from way down th...
The overhang doesn't look too big from way down th...

Comments on Ocean Overhang Add Comment
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By Evan Wisheropp
Oct 8, 2015

I've rapped down and scrubbed the heck out of this thing for probably a cumulative 4 hours, it's much nicer and good to go! Have at it! Feel free to PM me if you want to borrow the big gear.
By Evan Wisheropp
Jul 3, 2016

I led this route again yesterday, this route never fails to provide a fantastic adventure. I has gotten a little dirtier over the winter, but oh well, it's all part of the adventure! If This climb was completely clean and in Yosemite Valley it would be rated 5.10d and there would be a line of people still waiting not to get on it. The offwidth aficionados would love it though.

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