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Echo Cove - South Side
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Big Moe T 
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Boulder Dash T 
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Death On The Nile T 
Deceptive Corner T 
Ground Up or Shut Up (aka Poppycock) S 
Larry (aka Out To Lunch) S 
Little Moe T 
Moetown T 
Ocean of Night (aka Out to Grunge) T 
Undercover T 

Ocean of Night (aka Out to Grunge) 

YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Tom Beck & Robert Stavely-Parker, 1982
Page Views: 1,965
Submitted By: Gretchen on May 20, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (26)
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I love this route and am amazed that more people d...


Start on a pumpy flake moving on to a nice resting ledge. The top half of the climb is a scary move over the crux to the single bolt followed by a thin finger crack to the finish.


gear to 3", bolt

Photos of Ocean of Night (aka Out to Grunge) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: "Ocean Of Night". Photo by Blitzo.
BETA PHOTO: "Ocean Of Night". Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: Ocean of Night (5.10c) actually finishes left of t...
BETA PHOTO: Ocean of Night (5.10c) actually finishes left of t...
Rock Climbing Photo: Here is a better shot of the bottom section of thi...
Here is a better shot of the bottom section of thi...

Comments on Ocean of Night (aka Out to Grunge) Add Comment
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By Crack Addict
From: San Diego, CA
Apr 8, 2004

I backed off this route after placing my second cam in the flake. As I tugged on it loose grains were raining down from inside the flake. I didn't trust the placement so I backed off and set up a TR. Fun climb on TR.
By Pat W
Oct 5, 2007

I've only done this one on TR, and the anchor can be a bit zooish. From the top, I set some bigger cams way back in the middle of the formation, something like BD 2-4 equalized with a couple cordalettes. You could probably set an anchor on the edge of the lip using two or more pieces in the #1 camalot size, but a directional would be nessecary to prevent a TR'd climber from swinging into blocks on the climber's left. Overall, a good and varied route, sustained despite the ledge in the middle. 5.10a/b jam or lieback down low and 5.10bish face climbing above. On lead, don't blow the upper face moves near the bolt as you'd probably deck on the ledge. I'd enjoy leading it next time around.
By Kris Spevak
Nov 19, 2007

This is a really fun route, we put an anchor at the top just under the lip... no directional needed as you don't swing very hard toward the rocks on the left.
By Charles I.
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 14, 2008
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

My buddy ripped a # 4 out of the previously mentioned grainy rock while hanging after he botched the sequence at the bottom - yikes! If your leading I found it better to climb into the stance above the lieback (grainy)portion where you have many gear options available. Interesting climbing past the bolt puts you on top. The bolt above the ledge is pretty darn high I found. I had to climb up a ways to get it clipped - kinda spooky when your last piece is way below the ledge some 20'down. Once past the bolt climbing eases at very the top. Very exciting lead. Love great climbs like these that get NO stars in the book!
By Choncho
May 10, 2009

Ripped a piece while dogging, freaked out by a high bolt and still down grading. Classic.
By Randy
Oct 12, 2009
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Climbed this route for the first time last weekend (thanks for the recommendation Kris/Randy). It is quite good; maybe 3 of 5 stars. Pro seemed good in the flake (but a little strenuous to place). The thin diagonal seam above the bolt is harder than you expect -- you wouldn't want to blow the lieback moves.
By mhagny
Oct 27, 2016
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

The bottom part is super fun, and fairly easy, although a bit awkward to place pro initially. The top is scary indeed -- I had visions of shattering both ankles by falling onto the ledge. The moves past the bolt are thin, technical, and insecure, and you don't get gear for 8 - 10' past the bolt.
By Ice4life
From: US
Dec 14, 2016

Lead this and hung a few times, didn't dare fall down low on that flake... Very grainy, shit breaking off.

Bolt at crux is nice, the crux top half is deff commiting, but if you made it there, shouldn't be to much of an issue.

NO bolts at top for TR anchor, you need to go back and left 15-20 feet to a small .75-#1 or smaller green aliens crack, or bring big shit for the big crack at your feet at the top out. For TR, bring a static line to extend the TR.

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