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Ocean Negro T 
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Ocean Negro 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 250'
Original:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: unknown.
Page Views: 2,193
Submitted By: LeeAB Brinckerhoff on Aug 18, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

Description 

P1: Chocolate Corner.

P2: Nerve wracking stemming up the corner past a few bolts and small nuts and cams, head games.

P3: Amazing looking snaking thin hands splitter up a steep! wall with great exposure.

Location 

Off the top of Chocolate Corner.

Protection 

Few bolts and small gear including nuts.
  • I used 2 blue aliens, 1 yellow, 3 reds, a #2 camalot and stoppers #6-#11...possibly doubles.


Comments on Ocean Negro Add Comment
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By David Trippett
From: Squamish, BC
May 4, 2009
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b

There are some loose pieces just after the traverse into the crack from the belay, be sure to let any climbers below to keep an eye out. This pitch is a little sandy, but really good. Like a harder version of Anunaki. Long slings at the start keep drag to a minimum. [third pitch]
By m-earle
From: USA
May 7, 2009

The pro i used: 2 red camalots, 3 green, 2 purple, 2 gray. [third pitch]
By chris Kalous
Feb 27, 2010

While its difficult to get on this thing because of the popularity of Chocolate Corner, this route is a total classic and should be on any hardman's, I mean person's, list. However, it would be unwise to climb above or below somebody on this route. There are a couple loose chunks on both pitches that could ruin somebody's day in a hurry. Bring a knife and new webbing.

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