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Occupied Territory
5.13a YDS 7c+ French 29 Ewbanks IX+ UIAA 29 ZA E6 6c British
Avg: 3.3 from 18
votes
Routes in Ridge 4
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Apostrophe S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Dodge City S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Drive By Shooting S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Gunsmoke S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Honeymoon In Beirut S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Hoss S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Killer Elite S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Lawyers, Guns, and Hilties S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Life During Wartime S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Little Joe S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Mighty Mo S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Miss Kitty S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Mud Shark T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Occupied Territory S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Pandora's Bosch S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Piece Process T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Pinch A Loaf S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Rawhide S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Wild, Wild West (aka Wild West), The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Sport, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | Moe Hershoff |
| Page Views: | 3,528 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | richard magill on Dec 31, 2000 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Private Property issues
Details
The West Bank / Wild West / Secret Crag has been problematic for years due to access concerns. There have been negative encounters with gun-toting landowners who have alleged that the entire mountain is on private property. Typical approaches involve brief crossing of railroad property which appears to be prohibited.
Exact demarcation of property boundaries are not always clear. When in doubt, be discrete or polite.
Do not park your vehicle near the railroad tracks near Plainview. It is a well-known irritant to Plainview residents.
Exact demarcation of property boundaries are not always clear. When in doubt, be discrete or polite.
Do not park your vehicle near the railroad tracks near Plainview. It is a well-known irritant to Plainview residents.
Description
A great line in a spectacular setting!
Ridge 4 is a climber's dream - beautiful routes on killer sandstone, no crowds, and a really gorgeous spot. There are a variety of sport routes and trad routes up here, but Ridge 4 is mostly a sport crag, and one of the best routes on the crag is Occupied Territory.
When you get to Ridge 4, you will likely first come up to a big flat spot where Killer Elite (12a) takes off up the crag. Uphill just a little ways (50 feet) is Mud Shark (10d). The next route to the left is a short 3-bolt 12c. The next route left of that is Occupied Territory.
Start up a dihedral (pretty easy) until you reach a roof around the 3rd bolt. This is where the crux sequence starts - a burly problem that involves a sick reach to a shallow pocket. The route stays in your face with bad feet and steep climbing for the next few bolts, and then eases off. One more 5.12 move awaits high on the route to keep your full attention!
Some say there probably is no 13a move on the route, although it definitely pushes into the 12+ range at the start of the crux sequence, and several 12 moves stack on top of each other to get through the entire crux. So, I think the grade is justified.
Regardless of the rating, this is a really fun line with lots of engaging, continuous, burly pulling. It is great for a nice winter or fall day!
Ridge 4 is a climber's dream - beautiful routes on killer sandstone, no crowds, and a really gorgeous spot. There are a variety of sport routes and trad routes up here, but Ridge 4 is mostly a sport crag, and one of the best routes on the crag is Occupied Territory.
When you get to Ridge 4, you will likely first come up to a big flat spot where Killer Elite (12a) takes off up the crag. Uphill just a little ways (50 feet) is Mud Shark (10d). The next route to the left is a short 3-bolt 12c. The next route left of that is Occupied Territory.
Start up a dihedral (pretty easy) until you reach a roof around the 3rd bolt. This is where the crux sequence starts - a burly problem that involves a sick reach to a shallow pocket. The route stays in your face with bad feet and steep climbing for the next few bolts, and then eases off. One more 5.12 move awaits high on the route to keep your full attention!
Some say there probably is no 13a move on the route, although it definitely pushes into the 12+ range at the start of the crux sequence, and several 12 moves stack on top of each other to get through the entire crux. So, I think the grade is justified.
Regardless of the rating, this is a really fun line with lots of engaging, continuous, burly pulling. It is great for a nice winter or fall day!
Photos
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