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For me, the beta on this one was having someone to hold the pad underneath you so that you didn't slide down the hill while attempting to start the problem. Climbing it without this assistance was, no kidding, much much harder.
It starts with a visually attractive section of polished crmips, a nice jug, a crimp sidepull, and a cruxy throw into a slot. Use your feet well.
You may find that the climbing above is still stopper, as there isn't much chalk, and the holds and sequence is inobvious. It is a bit heady up there. Aim for the crack on the left, and make sure you have a good spot. There are decent fingerlocks in that thing.
Judging by the chalk, must people don't get past the jug. I'd give it more stars, but it kinds of sucks to work on this problem unless you have someone to help out with the pad, and the top out is really not all that fun. Also, it's fairly temperature dependent, because it's so slick. Do it if you've done basically everything else in Mad Meadows. Most areas this would be a good climb. In the pantheon that is Mad Meadows, it feels kind of turdy.
Just left of Peephole, across the trail from the Hueco Room.
One or two pads. To start, have someone standing at the base of the pad to keep it from sliding down. Once at the top out, have them reposition, as it trends left to topoout.
By Eli Staggs
From: Olympia, WA
Jul 13, 2016
Awesome route. Bunchy feet so it helps to be short!