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Obvious Weakness 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: unknown FRA: Ryan & Garrreth 2015
Page Views: 31
Submitted By: Nate Ball on Sep 19, 2016

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  • Description 

    The climbing on this route is closer to three-star quality but for that thrutch up the dirt mound at the top...

    Climb up the right or left side of a minor outcrop on the left side of the south-east facing slab. From a minor stance at a horizontal, make a precarious move to the next ledge then step left. Climb the left side of this big flake feature through a brief serious of laybacks and finger jams. From another ledge, protect carefully then make a few more long reaches. From here it's mostly easy climbing, trying to avoid slipping on dirt and grass, plugging the occasional cam in a horizontal.

    At the top of the weakness, step left onto what little bare rock is exposed beneath the grass-covered dirt-pile that guards the anchors. Try to get your feet up on exposed rock nearby and desperately grovel your way to the anchor.

    Be mindful on rappel, as a 60m rope just barely makes it to the ground.

    Location 

    South-east facing slab, left of the Puro Filipino dihedral and right of the left-arching feature that distinguishes this from the routeless wall to the left.

    Protection 

    Gear to 3", doubles .5-1"
    316 steel anchor (2011)


    Comments on Obvious Weakness Add Comment
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    By Nate Ball
    Administrator
    From: Portland, OR
    Sep 19, 2016

    We saw a couple of ancient bolt stumps about 1/3 of the way up this route. Interesting, as there is no documentation of any established climbing here previous to 2015...

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