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Obsessive-compulsive sport climbers
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Mar 6, 2010
Im obsessed with climbing as many different routes as i can... ive done somthing like 400 routes at rumney, good, bad, and ugly... my obssesive idea is that the more routes i do the more moves i will get experience with and the more variety i will get in my muscle memory making it easier to climb well... its worked well for me so far and i have lots of fun with it but... i really love the idea of projecting something at my limit i just have such a hard time doing it when there are still routes below that grade i havent done :/
lee hansche
From goffstown, nh
Joined Jan 10, 2007
19,115 points
Mar 8, 2010
Jim Gloeckler wrote:
There are a certain amount of trad climbers out there that have OC tendencies of putting down sport climbers or gym climbers in an attempt to claim superiority. No matter how much they do it they can't stop, even if it makes them look silly.


Nah, couldn't be true! Those guys probably have Tourette's!
kachoong
From Atlanta, GA
Joined Jan 22, 2010
70 points
Mar 8, 2010
when I sport or boulder I:
1) left shoe first, but close the velcro straps on the right foot first.

2) chalk left hand, right hand, then left hand again.

3) hold the start hold for about two seconds longer than necessary before starting the route.

That's about it.
koreo
From Denver, CO
Joined Aug 24, 2009
0 points
Apr 26, 2010
I really don't like to climb odd numbered routes (i.e. 5.9, 5.11). I get a deep sense of foreboding before starting them. Colin W
Joined Oct 21, 2006
20 points
Apr 26, 2010
Hmm, interesting post.

The whole point of a routine before some activity is to center and focus oneself. All aspects of someone's routine may be completely useless in terms of physically improving your ability to climb, but it is the mental effect that seems to be important. Something that is obsessive compulsive may start as a routine, but if you do not do it just right or one element is slightly off, you start thinking about how your routine is disrupted and it keeps you from sending.

But if you remove that negative context out, having an obsession can push you to train and try harder.

Since most actions begin with thoughts, being centered and settled mentally before a climb seems to improve my ability. To someone else, this may make no difference at all.
Michal Turczyk
From Las Vegas, NV
Joined Apr 15, 2007
5 points
Apr 26, 2010
Colin W wrote:
I really don't like to climb odd numbered routes (i.e. 5.9, 5.11). I get a deep sense of foreboding before starting them.


i've got the same attitude about anything with a "5.Xd" rating. sends shivers down my spine...

also, though i mostly climb trad, i'm vehemently left-foot-first. seriously.
Aaron Martinuzzi
Joined Apr 15, 2008
1,420 points
Apr 26, 2010
i for some reason just really dont like climbing 13's. its cuz its bad luck right? Ted Farley
From Bozeman, Mt
Joined Feb 19, 2010
0 points
Oct 28, 2010
First post on mp!
1. Im a left shoe first person
2. I always set my first left foot twice at the start
3. Doulbe dip left hand single dip right
4. Take 6 rapid deep deep breaths
If I don't I feel off
Zach Pickard
From Riverside, California
Joined Oct 21, 2010
10 points
Oct 28, 2010
Now that you mention it, I can't remember ever putting on my left shoe first, either climbing or not.

Like mentioned above, I think it's just things we do to "get in the zone" before we start climbing. Regardless of proven, or physical benefits, it gets our head straight which might be more important than your relative physical readiness before a climb.

I think sport and trad are more likely to have these tendencies because of the amount of gear they have. I even triple and quadruple check knots and such on a top-rope anchor. It obviously goes beyond the necessary safety measures, but you do it anyway and it keeps you from making mistakes, something we're all better off not doing.

Bottom line, most tendencies don't hurt anyone, and if it helps you be a safer and better climber, then by all means don't stop doing it.
Brendan Blanchard
From Boulder, CO
Joined Oct 18, 2010
410 points
Oct 28, 2010
Sounds like we need a new rating system...
5.11a put wrong shoe on first and chalked up hands in wrong algorithm.
Juston
From Colorado
Joined Mar 6, 2010
5 points
Oct 28, 2010
Mike Slavens wrote:
Besides EVERY climber moves their hands along with the holds when describing a particular squence, its particularly funny when a heel hook is involved.


Ha! Yes, thanks, made me laugh. Also, it's always a hyped-up wide-eyed description of the moves. Love it.

Jasmine Kall wrote:
2) Found half eaten cliff bar from trip two weeks ago.. Breakfast


We eat the same breakfast. Usually for me, it's an old apple, stale crackers, some dried bananas and mangoes if I'm lucky. Always the morning before heading out to climb.

Great thread.
Eric Krantz
From Black Hills
Joined Feb 21, 2004
235 points


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