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The Papoose
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Centerfold T 
Hairpin T 
Hanging Gardens T 
Laid Back T 
Limbo T 
Mercury Vapour T 
Mushroom T 
Obsession T 
Pamplemousse T,S 
Papoose One T 
Survival Enhancement T 
Transit of Venus T 

Obsession 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 400', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: J. Howe, R. Barley, G Woloski
Season: West facing
Page Views: 526
Submitted By: Andy Laakmann on Aug 9, 2013  with updates from Nick Wilder

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Description 

Really fun new addition to the Papoose. As good as any of the other routes there in my opinion.

All the traverses are well protected for leader and follower.

P1 - Start up Centrefold and at the first bolt start traversing left. Skip the intermediate anchor and go all the way to the nice ledge below the chimney/slot pitch of Papoose One. Two bolts plus a variety of gear. I placed a #3 on the way to the last bolt, but a #4 could be placed a bit higher. Some fun "walk the plank" moves! I ended up approaching the last bolt from below rather than foot traversing, but I'm not sure it was the easy way.

P2 - Great pitch of intriguing face climbing. All bolted until the final short crack to the Hairpin anchor. The moves across the traverse are really cool.

P3 - Easy 5.7 hand crack to the right, past the Papoose One belay, up to a new belay above the small roof.

P4 - Enjoyable and well protected face climbing all the to the top. After the last bolt head up and trend right joining the finishing moves of Centrefold. Gear is required getting to the first bolt and a green camalot can be placed in a final horizontal at the top to protect the second and take the sting off the final Centrefold 5.7 runout.

Topo and details available (2013) Quickdraw Publications

Location 

Start up Centrefolkd but traverse left after the first bolt.

We rapped Centrefold with a 70m in three raps straight down. A 60m route would NOT make the first rap, as a 70m just made it.

Protection 

Plenty of bolts, but a rack is required. Most climbers could get by with a single rack from finger size to #3 camalot. I was happy to have two #1s and #2s camalots on the first pitch.


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