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Cascade Falls/Obsession Area
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Obsession 

WI4

   
Type:  Ice, 2 pitches, 180'
Original: WI4 [details]
FA: Guy Lacelle and Shaun Parent, 1983
Season: winter
Page Views: 2,180
Submitted By: Kris Gorny on May 1, 2007

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Orient Bay, Canada. Kate Muehling leading the crux...

Description 

One of the best-known grade 4's of the area. Solid ice, very well protected.

Pitch 1: Climb WI 3 bulges to a stance at the bottom of a vertical pillar. Guidebook mentions pins on the left for belay. We used slings in a v-thread right of the pillar.

Pitch 2: Climb the pillar (crux, WI 4) and several ice steps that follow to the top. Rap the route.

It can also be done in a single pitch. Double 60m ropes get you down to the belay anchors at the base.

Location 

From Trans-Canada Pipeline Station drive for about 34 miles until you see the climb on the right. Leave the car on the pull off ~100 yards back, walk along the highway and climb the snow slopes to the climb.

Protection 

Ice screws. Belay anchors at the base (on the left) and on top of the pillar (on the right).


Photos of Obsession Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Dave Rone doing a lap on "Obsession" Dec...
Dave Rone doing a lap on "Obsession" Dec...
Rock Climbing Photo: Rapping the route.
Rapping the route.
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 2. Crux.
Pitch 2. Crux.
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbing pitch 1. February 2004.
Climbing pitch 1. February 2004.
Rock Climbing Photo: Obsession as seen from Highway 11.
BETA PHOTO: Obsession as seen from Highway 11.

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