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The Overlook
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Obscurity Risk 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 55'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Don DeBieux, 1993
Season: all but winter
Page Views: 529
Submitted By: Pinklebear on Jun 20, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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  • Description 

    This is the line with the three fixed pins and two fixed wires just right of Greenfield, arcing up and right along the steepest part of the wall. Despite the "funk" factor with the old fixed pro, this is a great little climb with steep moves and nice rock.

    Pre-clip the first fixed wire if you can (we did a cupped-hand boost-up stand to get the draw on), then crank strenuous lockoff moves as you pull onto the wall. Head right to a good flake/jug and a pin, bust more tough moves past a fixed stopper, then step right below the second overhang. Two more fixed pins in the seam get you up the curved, perplexing finishing corner.

    I was able to back up the next-to-last fixed pin with an RP above it, and the final pin with a bomber Metolius yellow (No. 2) in the horizontal just below it.

    The fixed nuts seem OK on this climb, but the last two pins stick out a bit far - though you can back them up! Once the corner ends slab up and right a little to the double-bolt anchors.

    Location 

    This is just right of Greenfield on the steepest belly of the Overlook.

    Protection 

    Three fixed pins, two fixed wires, RPs, small TCU(s).


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    By ChanVan
    May 30, 2013
    rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13

    A little scary at the start. I climbed up and hung off the first fixed nut to back it up, then lowered and fired from the start with the fixed nut and back-up nut already clipped. No decking potential that way. Cool route overall- steep and funky with a back-up available next to almost every fixed piece.

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