Type: Sport, 55 ft (17 m)
FA: Don DeBieux, 1993
Page Views: 1,653 total · 10/month
Shared By: Orphaned User on Jun 20, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

This is the line with the three fixed pins and two fixed wires just right of Greenfield, arcing up and right along the steepest part of the wall. Despite the "funk" factor with the old fixed pro, this is a great little climb with steep moves and nice rock.

Pre-clip the first fixed wire if you can (we did a cupped-hand boost-up stand to get the draw on), then crank strenuous lockoff moves as you pull onto the wall. Head right to a good flake/jug and a pin, bust more tough moves past a fixed stopper, then step right below the second overhang. Two more fixed pins in the seam get you up the curved, perplexing finishing corner.

I was able to back up the next-to-last fixed pin with an RP above it, and the final pin with a bomber Metolius yellow (No. 2) in the horizontal just below it.

The fixed nuts seem OK on this climb, but the last two pins stick out a bit far - though you can back them up! Once the corner ends slab up and right a little to the double-bolt anchors.

Location Suggest change

This is just right of Greenfield on the steepest belly of the Overlook.

Protection Suggest change

Three fixed pins, two fixed wires, RPs, small TCU(s).

Per Chris toph: it is now 6 bolts and a two bolt anchor.

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