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Obscured by Time 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 250'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a R [details]
FA: Bob Gaines, 1984 (Pitch 1), Eddie Bedout, Dave Mayville & Bruce Gill, July 1988 (2nd pitch and entire route)
Page Views: 40
Submitted By: Tradiban on Aug 1, 2017

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Description 

Two pitch climb with an easy first pitch, 5.8 on hollow flakes and a short slab finish. Second pitch is some heady moves off the belay to a short right facing flake (finger size pro) and then pure shoe rubber friction past two bolts and over the roof.

Location 

Route right of Obscured by Clouds.

Protection 

Standard rack + 2 bolts on the second pitch.


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By Tradiban
Aug 1, 2017

I couldn't tell if there was any pro on P2 in the short flake so I traversed way right and up a dike to place a small piece in a upward facing crack, almost directly below the bolt on Harms Way. I then traversed back towards the belay and down and started up towards the small flake from about 10ft right of the belay. Had I known about the ok piece in the flake I probably would have gone for it but a fall onto the belay could be extremely hazardous as there's one bolt with a very suspect hanger.

Pitch one is a fun 5.8 but the pro would spook a 5.8 leader for sure. Pitch two is some of the most no hands climbing I have done at Suicide.

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