|Type:||Trad, 2 pitches, 230'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b X [details]|
|Submitted By:||pete cogan on Jun 29, 2006|
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|Comments on Obscura Direct||Add Comment|
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By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jun 30, 2008
Second pitch flake crack is pretty cool moves. great gear.
The no-pro run-out is indeed a long ways, but well-featured, and low-angled. Just keep following the good holds trending up and left.
#2 Camalot in the overlap with a runner. The weakness in the overlap that I pulled was quite a bit harder than 5.7, but I protected it by barely reaching and place a #0.5 Camalot mid-move, I am 6'2", +4 apeindex, so I wouldnt really recommend this way. A fall here would still stretch you to hitting the slab.
A novelty route.
By Tom Johnson
From: Colorado Springs, or Santa Fe
Sep 14, 2008
|Agree with Darren that the run-out is pretty straightforward. If you've done other South Platte run out slab you'll know what to expect. The move over the roof is pretty stiff for 5.7, but it's not terrible. Just power up and over on a jug and get a mantle to get your feet on up. Decent route.|
By Nick Orticelle
From: Denver, Co
Aug 11, 2009
This was a fun route that tests your nerves if you don't typically run things out. We were going to do Arch Rock Route, but my partner said this is an interesting one with a run out at the top of P1 and an interesting roof move above.
Yeah...I didn't even think to ask further about the run out. Afterwards I was like "wtf was that, man?" He just said "when I say it's run out, I mean it." I'm definitely learning this guy likes to put me on the really run out climbs. It is definitely very easy climbing during the run out though (I'd say 5.5). The R rating works well.
Either way...it's got a great belay ledge and fairly wide horizontal seam under the roof to set up anchor. I used all my beautiful large cams for the anchor (#3.5, 4, and 4.5 Camalots), and it put a smile on my face. The roof is more of an out cropped hueco (at least the part we did)...It does not require sporty roof moves, but is interesting trying to figure it out without getting a nice little deck onto the slab.
By Lauren D. Hollingsworth
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jul 24, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
I agree with the above comments. This is not a good lead for anyone who might fall on 5.7.
The runout to the arch can be protected by climbing parallel to Arch Rock Regular Route just to the right, then placing a hand-sized cam on the rightmost end of the arch (30-35' runout to this). Then the leader may traverse hard left to the point where the overlap pinches down into high-stepping range (another 30' runout with pendulum fall).
The Falcon Guide "Rock Climbing Colorado" certainly did not provide the necessary information for a 5.7 leader to decide if he or she should do this route, as the long runout section is described merely as "unprotected slab."