|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches, 900', Grade III|
|Original:||YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]|
|Submitted By:||Ryan Huetter on Apr 4, 2009|
|Comments on Objetivo Luna||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Rob Dillon
Dec 16, 2011
|FA Michel Piola, I believe. Puts the please-U in pleasure climbing!|
By Dan Flynn
Jan 23, 2014
Awesome route. Linked p 5-6 as described here with no great difficulty, such a fun arete!
Recommended descent... couldn't tell you. Probably down the cara banana face. My partner convinced me we should try to rap the route (with some down climbing easy sections). It worked... sort of... don't do it!
By John Gassel
From: Boston, MA
Jan 11, 2017
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
To me it felt like P2 was the crux pitch. It's pretty long and engaging with lots of different styles of climbing involved. Bring lots of draws for this one, it'll take gear and bolts.
P1 was tougher than expected. Pretty powerful and pumpy.
There is a new variation on P7 that goes essentially straight up (instead of going out left to the roof). This variation feels like about 6a. It's got some pretty decently spaced bolts but most of the holds are positive edges. Ran into some guys who have done the route 4 times before and they thought this new variation was better than the original pitch. I thought it was fun too.
Descent beta: After doing the fun rappel of the back side, don't follow your temptation to just hike off the gully to skiers left (when viewed from the top of the climb). Instead hike off that way for only a moment before climbing back up a short bit. Go through a notch. Start to follow cairns down and to the right at this point. You'll reach a slung block. Do one more short rappel from here to a broad ledge. Follow cairns, this time to the left and down around the backside.