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Objetivo Luna T 

Objetivo Luna 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches, 900', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: 
Season: Southern Summer
Page Views: 1,554
Submitted By: Ryan Huetter on Apr 4, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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BETA PHOTO: Route takes obvious line up left side to airy summ...

Description 

This is a great route which follows an airy, exposed and natural line up the north pillar of El Cohete Lunar. The climbing is a mixture of splitter crack and vertical face climbing.
Pitch 1: Go all the way to the left along the large access ledge. Climb up to bolt anchor up beautiful right facing flake. 10b.
Pitch 2: Thin jams up to roof, traverse out and up. Keep moving up and left, following spaced out bolt line. Clip with LONG slings-drag can be crippling. 2 bolt anchor. 10c
Pitch 3: Straight up, face climbing on patina edges. Steep! Ends at gear belay on ledge. 10b
Pitch 4: 4th class with short 5.5 move to gain ledge on right side of gendarme. 1 bolt anchor, back up with gear.
Pitch 5: Stellar thin hands, hands and fists up corner. Belay atop saddle. 5.9+
Pitch 6: Out to exposed arete and climb up past bolt and around to single bolt belay. Have leader take camera with! 5.8
Pitch 7: Crux. Up face moves to base of roof. Place some extra pro below roof and jam up and over. Keep crimping to another 2 bolt anchor. 10+
Pitch 8: Single difficult move right off belay, pass one bolt and up to summit. Anchor/rap station on far side.
Decent: Single rope rap gets you down to notch, follow cairns around to backside where you will find one more 30 ft rap. Hike back down to base.

Linking pitches 4 & 5 or 5 & 6 is POSSIBLE, but will end up leaving you cursing the rope drag. Just pitch it out and enjoy the climbing!


Location 

Far left side of El Cohete Lunar, along main access ledge. Enormous cairn marks the obvious start.

Protection 

Nuts. Double rack to 3". One 4" piece and a handful of micros. A dozen draws. LOTS of slings.


Photos of Objetivo Luna Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Peter leads up P1.
Peter leads up P1.
Rock Climbing Photo: rapping the backside of the summit
rapping the backside of the summit
Rock Climbing Photo: second to last pitch. Suppose to be the crux, but ...
BETA PHOTO: second to last pitch. Suppose to be the crux, but ...
Rock Climbing Photo: last pitch: The summit is a detached huge boulder!...
last pitch: The summit is a detached huge boulder!...
Rock Climbing Photo: Arete pitch 2
Arete pitch 2
Rock Climbing Photo: Arete pitch 1
Arete pitch 1

Comments on Objetivo Luna Add Comment
Show which comments
By Rob Dillon
Dec 16, 2011

FA Michel Piola, I believe. Puts the please-U in pleasure climbing!
By Dan Flynn
Administrator
From: MA
Jan 23, 2014

Awesome route. Linked p 5-6 as described here with no great difficulty, such a fun arete!

Recommended descent... couldn't tell you. Probably down the cara banana face. My partner convinced me we should try to rap the route (with some down climbing easy sections). It worked... sort of... don't do it!
By John Gassel
From: Boston, MA
Jan 11, 2017
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Awesome route!

To me it felt like P2 was the crux pitch. It's pretty long and engaging with lots of different styles of climbing involved. Bring lots of draws for this one, it'll take gear and bolts.

P1 was tougher than expected. Pretty powerful and pumpy.

There is a new variation on P7 that goes essentially straight up (instead of going out left to the roof). This variation feels like about 6a. It's got some pretty decently spaced bolts but most of the holds are positive edges. Ran into some guys who have done the route 4 times before and they thought this new variation was better than the original pitch. I thought it was fun too.

Descent beta: After doing the fun rappel of the back side, don't follow your temptation to just hike off the gully to skiers left (when viewed from the top of the climb). Instead hike off that way for only a moment before climbing back up a short bit. Go through a notch. Start to follow cairns down and to the right at this point. You'll reach a slung block. Do one more short rappel from here to a broad ledge. Follow cairns, this time to the left and down around the backside.

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