|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 65'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]|
|FA:||Jason Haas, 2005|
|Submitted By:||Kevin Wagner on May 30, 2013|
|Comments on Oberon||Add Comment|
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By Andy Weinmann
From: Alexandria, VA
Apr 2, 2014
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Ok, here's a real description for getting to this climb. From the approach trail that takes you to the base area of Moonshiners Wall, walk to the left around the crag. Continue following the path around as best as possible. Eventually you'll come to a VERY large hemlock (yes, technically a pine tree)
like 4' in diameter. Oberon is the obvious corner you'll see here. It's about a 5-10 min walk from when you initially get to the crag.
Be careful with the start take a #4 or #5 if you want to protect the moves to get up to the ledge where the main handcrack starts. Be very careful of the paper thin flake to the left of the Oberon corner.
It's a great line, but the very top can get a little wet/dirty. Take at least 3 #2BD cams, preferably 4 .2 #3s should do you maybe 2 or 3 #1s. The line is a shade harder than Brontosaurus over at Pebble Beach. Crux is in your face at the start of the handcrack.
Jul 15, 2016
Definitely take a couple of #1 C4s because the top needs it. Nothing smaller than #1s though.
The short approach and easy parking makes it possible to pop in for a quick one and still have plenty of time to go elsewhere.
Was shaded mid-morning in the summer, and was pleasant to climb even when the rest of the gorge was mid-90s.