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Up the 9 T,S 
Wanker Rail, The S 

Oaklands Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 8,200'
Location: 35.2458, -111.6208 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 7,741
Administrators: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Colin Cox on Oct 30, 2011


62° | 32°

59° | 29°

57° | 31°

61° | 36°

63° | 36°
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [2 people like this page.]
Abel Jones tops out on the Wanker Rail. Almost eve...


Oaklands is a 60-80 foot, south facing, dacite cliff on the western side of Elden. The area is named after the abundant oak trees that grow along the south facing slope of the gully. The routes follow visually pleasing cracks, seams, dihedrals and aretes. There are some pure cracks and several sport climbs, with a few mixed routes as well. Like other dacite areas the climbing is vertical, technical, and often bouldery with generally small, heavily textured, holds. Oaklands is a warm, south facing cliff, so the cooler months of fall offer the best climbing conditions.

Getting There 

Oaklands is located about midway between West Elden and Solitude Canyon. The cliff band can be clearly seen from downtown, but on the approach, it can hardly be detected. Take HWY 180 to Schultz Pass Rd. Set your odometer and drive past the fork staying right on Elden Lookout Rd, as if you were going to West Elden. At 1.9 miles the road turns to dirt before a gate. At 2.3 miles there is a parking pullout on the right big enough for about five cars. Park. Essentially you will be hiking Eastward straight toward the mountain from here, aiming for the mouth of the gully that contains the wall. Here is the best way to do so: From the car, find the obvious wide trail 75ft below that parallels the road. Follow this wide trail right(S) for about 100 feet until you see a wooden post and single track trail that turns left in the direction of the mountain. Follow this trail for about 400 yards, ignoring trails that branch off in different directions, until it Ts into another wider trail(The AZ Trail). Turn right and continue hiking in the direction of the mountain on the AZ Trail. In about 100 yards, when this trail curves right and heads south, continue straight toward the mountain (250 yards away) through open forest dotted with burnt slash piles. You will reach the Oldham Trail(which skirts the rocky, steep, bottom edge of the mountain) right near some large exposed rocks with an aspen protection fence enclosing the area. This is the Worm Hole, a cavernous jumble of boulders featuring a 50 foot lava tube. Go check it out. There is a trail junction just right of the Worm Hole. Follow the Oldham Trail which climbs up to the mouth of the gully you want. You will pass another aspen protection fence on the right. Go up another couple hundred yards until the Oldham Trail reaches it's high point at the mouth of the gully. It takes about 15 minutes to reach this point where the climbers trail begins. Look for cairns that mark the beginning of the trail. Follow the progressively steep climbers trail for another 20 minutes to the crag. About 35-40 minutes all together. 30 minutes to get back to the car. ***When the gate is locked, park and walk the road for five minutes to the parking area mentioned above and follow the same directions.

Climbing Season

For the Mt. Elden Crags area.

Weather station 4.9 miles from here

34 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',15],['2 Stars',13],['1 Star',6],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Oaklands

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Oaklands:
Freedom of the Hills   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Stepchild   5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   
Red Dream   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   
Sporting the Line   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Runaway Train   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Oaklands

Featured Route For Oaklands
Rock Climbing Photo: able on the first ascent

Sporting the Line 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a  Arizona : Northern Arizona : ... : Oaklands
Simply put. This route is SICK! The Line shares the start of Jug a Low. Instead of continuing straight up bust right into stellar looking overhung crack. Enjoy hand friendly rock, fantastic holds and a whole lot of pump up the steep crack. Keep moving until you reach the final stem when the crack becomes less steep. The final feet of the climb rely on stemming and power to pull the finishing moves topping out the cliff....[more]   Browse More Classics in Arizona

Photos of Oaklands Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Helen on the second step of Stepchild.
Helen on the second step of Stepchild.
Rock Climbing Photo: Wade Forest follows Ride the Snake - 10d
Wade Forest follows Ride the Snake - 10d
Rock Climbing Photo: John Crawley takes in the view before starting out...
John Crawley takes in the view before starting out...
Rock Climbing Photo: Matt on the stemming finish of Keepin' It Real.
Matt on the stemming finish of Keepin' It Real.
Rock Climbing Photo: The view of Flagstaff from Oaklands. That's Buffal...
The view of Flagstaff from Oaklands. That's Buffal...

Comments on Oaklands Add Comment
Show which comments
By JJ Schlick
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Oct 30, 2011
Right on Colin. Thanks for all the work both at the crag and on MP, and props to the rest of the Oakland crew. A beautiful spot to take it all in for sure.
By Anthony Brown
Nov 15, 2011
One of the best spots in town, hands down!!!!! Dont be discouraged by the hike. Truly Worth it!!!!
By Wylie
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jan 13, 2014
Approach beta: at the junction of Oldham Trail with the fencing and wormhole make sure to GO RIGHT on Oldham, not left. This area has great stone and interesting lines. If you like thin techy crimping and friction climbing you'll love it here.

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