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Oak Creek Spire

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
"Southern Revival" South Face of Oak Creek Spire T 
Beast Master T 
La Quinta T 
North Face/West Crack T 
Poquito Bandito T 

Oak Creek Spire Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 4,000'
Location: 34.80291, -111.72756 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 12,157
Administrators: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Orphaned on Mar 22, 2006
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The famous jump-across move on Oak Creek Spire (L....

Description 

Oak Creek Spire is a classic double-summited Sedona spire with a rabbit-ears profile. This tower tends to have a lot more loose rock than other towers in Sedona, so a little extra caution (and a HELMET) is advised. The highlight of climbing OCS is the (in)famous "jump move" on the lead of the third pitch, where you have to leap across a gap between the spire's ears to a small stance on the far side. Exciting stuff!

Getting There 

It is considered bad climber karma to appraoch OCS by trespassing through Pine Valley Estates!

From the trailhead off Jacks Canyon Road, hike north on the Ridge Trail (see map). As you approach the top of a hill, a faint trail should lead cross-country to the northeast and Oak Creek Spire. You go down into a wash and then climb up a wash that comes down from the west side of the spire to reach the routes.

Climbing Season



Weather station 4.4 miles from here

5 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',1],['5.11',1],['5.12',2],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Oak Creek Spire

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Oak Creek Spire:
North Face/West Crack   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 3 pitches, 250'   
Poquito Bandito   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 65'   
"Southern Revival" South Face of Oak Creek Spire   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b     Trad, 6 pitches, 560'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Oak Creek Spire

Featured Route For Oak Creek Spire
Rock Climbing Photo: FA Party on Summit of OCS after success on 'Beast ...

Beast Master 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a  Arizona : Sedona Area : ... : Oak Creek Spire
Have you climbed 'Southern Revival' and felt a bit...unsatisfied? This 2 bolt variation might leave you feeling a bit less weak. Clip the last bolt on the 1st pitch and move left past bolt to a belay. Now tip your head back and eye the next 39 meters carefully. Snort some 'roids and prepare to get raw ripped. Move left on munge past a bolt and techy tick-tack through the tips crack. Sport layback to a rest and hope you didn't blow all your .5's yet...More sports laybacking up through steep thin...[more]   Browse More Classics in Arizona

Photos of Oak Creek Spire Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Oak Creek Spire (south side)
Oak Creek Spire (south side)
Rock Climbing Photo: The view to the north on top of Oak Creek Spire
The view to the north on top of Oak Creek Spire
Rock Climbing Photo: Definitely not the correct approach angle
Definitely not the correct approach angle

Comments on Oak Creek Spire Add Comment
Show which comments
By Alexander K
From: The road
Apr 11, 2017
Some more info on how to find the trail: Park at the Jack's Canyon trailhead, cross the street and go through the cattle gate. Take this trail until you go down into the wash west of Oak Creek Spire, shortly after the trail starts heading away from the spire an obvious trail branches off to the right. Take this and make some decisions about which cairned path you will take to the base of the tower. No bushwacking and very nice.

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