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Oak Creek Canyon

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1st Bend Crag 
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Oak Creek Canyon Rock Climbing 

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Location: 38.31063, -105.24943 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Todd Miller on May 2, 2004
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It was a gorgeous day at Oak Creek Canyon!

Titanic reopens! South Hardscrabble Creek remains closed. MORE INFO >>>


Oak Creek Canyon has fantastic climbing in the northern Wet Mountains, 9 miles south of Canon City. It is a fun alternative to Shelf Road, with far more moderates. It is quite popular. There is a site with downloadable guide. I think there are about 150 routes or so, mostly granite sport climbs. I have climbed routes from 5.6 to 5.11, but there are many harder routes if you can climb that hard. Tannner Dome is the primary attraction, though there are many crags on which to climb.

Online guide:

Getting There 

Taken from the online guide:

From Canon City take 4th street left/south, over the Arkansas river, about 1 mile. At this point the road takes a 90 degree left turn. T this point turn right on to county road 143. Drive this until you go up the big hill, you won't miss it. 2 mles after this you park and climbing awaits. on the north side of the road.

Climbing Season

Weather station 8.5 miles from here

42 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',21],['2 Stars',9],['1 Star',11],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Oak Creek Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Oak Creek Canyon:
Flee   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Tanner Dome
Zing   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Tanner Dome
Tanner Classic   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 2 pitches, 150'   Tanner Dome
Amp Right   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Sport, 2 pitches   Tanner Dome
Amp Left   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Sport, 2 pitches, 180'   Tanner Dome
Landscape Architect   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Tanner Dome
Rightist   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 2 pitches, 180'   Tanner Dome
The Merrimac   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Tanner Dome
30,000 Casualties   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Tanner Dome
Clippers and Saws   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Tanner Dome
Pendejo   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 3 pitches, 330'   Tanner Dome
Chickamauga   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Tanner Dome
Vicksburg   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   Tanner Dome
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Oak Creek Canyon

Featured Route For Oak Creek Canyon
Rock Climbing Photo: A real beauty!

Clippers and Saws 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b  Colorado : The Wet Mountains : ... : Tanner Dome
The route begins by scrambling up to the 1st of two wide pods. You can walk a 3.5 cam to protect the first pod. Exit the first pod going over a small bulge with a finger crack. Continue up past the 2nd small pod into the 30’ splitter finger crack. Perfect ring locks and lay-backing off the lichen covered wall will get you near the top of the crack where you can grab a solid jug. Another 20’ of easy face climbing will get you to the anchors....[more]   Browse More Classics in Colorado

Photos of Oak Creek Canyon Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Closure sign posted at approximately the 12 mile r...
BETA PHOTO: Closure sign posted at approximately the 12 mile r...

Comments on Oak Creek Canyon Add Comment
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By Anonymous Coward
May 8, 2004
Isn't this place also called Tanner Dome?
By Ben Bruestle
From: Pueblo, CO
Aug 29, 2004
Tanner Dome is just one of the climbing areas along Oak Creek Grade Road. It is the only one closed anually April 1-July 31 for raptors.
By Randy Carmichael
From: Boulder, CO
May 18, 2006
A large portion of this area is closed from April 1st to August 1st every year due to Peregrine Falcon nesting. I believe the closure applies to all of the Tanner Dome Complex. You can be fined up to $5,000 and be imprisoned for up to 6 months for violating the closure. The program seems to be working, because I saw a pair of Peregrine's soaring on 5/14/06. I believe the other formations in the area are open.
By George Perkins
From: The Dungeon, NM
Sep 18, 2014
The link to the online guide referenced above no longer works.

(Edit: To those who sent me a copy or offered to- THANKS!)
By Cory Eales
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Nov 1, 2015
Does anyone have a copy of the online guide they would be willing to send?
By Angie Robin
Apr 21, 2017
Whoever is bolting PERFECTLY protect-able cracks in Stultz, you really need to stop! If I was younger, I would be chopping those bolts myself!

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