REI Community
Oak Creek Canyon

Select Area...
Black Orpheus Amphitheater 
Eagle Wall 
Friar and Byrd Pinnacle, The 
Oak Creek Canyon Bouldering 
Rainbow Mountain - East Face  
Silly Patch Boulders 
Solar Slab - Lower Tier 
Solar Slab - Upper Tier 
South Fork - Oak Creek 
Upper Oak Creek Canyon 
Upper Painted Bowl 

Oak Creek Canyon Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 36.10169, -115.48876 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 178,707
Administrators: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: M. Morley on Feb 16, 2004
Forecast:
Tonight

58°
Thursday

70° | 46°
Friday

65° | 45°
Saturday

66° | 45°
Sunday

68° | 48°
Monday

70° | 50°
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Looking down Oak Creek Canyon from the bivy at the...

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is one of the most beautiful canyons in Red Rock. The ultra-classic Solar Slab is near the mouth of the canyon. This is actually a huge buttress facing generally south or southeast. On the upstream side of the buttress is the Black Orpheus Amphitheater, lying to the west of the slab.

The south side of the canyon mouth is dominated by the Cactus Flower Tower and its associated Blood Wall and Oakey Buttress.

Further upstream, on the north side of the canyon, one finds the sweeping Painted Bowl, Eagle Wall, and Celebration Wall. In this area are local classics such as Rainbow Buttress and Levitation 29. The beautiful slabs in the upper part of the canyon are worth the hike (or you can pass them on the descent from the summit area of Rainbow Mountain). Oak Creek's southern branches are an area of complex topography and few recorded climbs.

Getting There 

To get to the Oak Creek parking lot, take the scenic loop road 12.1 miles as measured from the turnoff from highway 159. Turn right on to a dirt road, follow this 0.8 miles west to the parking lot. This dirt road is passable by 2WD vehicles.

An alternative approach avoids the scenic loop. Park on Highway 159 about a half mile south of the exit gate from the scenic loop road. A hikers' gate in the barbed wire fence leads to a trail that heads straight west into Oak Creek Canyon. The trail stays to the north of the Oak Creek wash and joins up with the main trail just before reaching the mouth of the canyon.

Climbing Season



Weather station 2.4 miles from here

75 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',27],['2 Stars',34],['1 Star',8],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',5],['5.7',3],['5.8',11],['5.9',15],['5.10',14],['5.11',12],['5.12',4],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',3],['V2-3',4],['V4-5',1],['V6-7',1],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Oak Creek Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Oak Creek Canyon:
Solar Slab   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 9 pitches, 1220'   Solar Slab - Upper Tier
Going Nuts   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 300'   Solar Slab - Upper Tier
Sunburn   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 12 pitches, 1500'   Solar Slab - Upper Tier
Johnny Vegas   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 4 pitches   Solar Slab - Lower Tier
Heliotrope   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R     Trad, 5 pitches, 750'   Solar Slab - Upper Tier
Rainbow Buttress   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 8 pitches, 1200'   Eagle Wall
Sundog   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 4 pitches, 500'   Solar Slab - Upper Tier
Sunflower   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R     Trad, 6 pitches, 850'   Solar Slab - Upper Tier
The Friar   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 4 pitches, 300'   The Friar and Byrd Pinnacle
Arch Enemy   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 3 pitches, 500'   Solar Slab - Upper Tier
Beulah's Book   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 3 pitches, 550'   Solar Slab - Lower Tier
Xyphoid Left   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   The Friar and Byrd Pinnacle
Black Orpheus   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 8 pitches, 1500'   Black Orpheus Amphitheater
Solar Flare   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 5 pitches, 500'   Solar Slab - Lower Tier
Chicken Lips   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b     Trad, 7 pitches, 900'   Upper Painted Bowl
Eagle Dance   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A0+     Trad, Sport, Aid, 11 pitches, 900'   Eagle Wall
Red Zinger   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 110'   The Friar and Byrd Pinnacle
The Secret World of Arrietty   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 140'   Black Orpheus Amphitheater
Levitation 29   5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, Sport, 9 pitches, 700'   Eagle Wall
The Black Widow   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b     Trad, 4 pitches, 500'   Black Orpheus Amphitheater
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Oak Creek Canyon

Featured Route For Oak Creek Canyon
Rock Climbing Photo: Xavier Wasiak leading the first pitch

Black Orpheus 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a  Nevada : Red Rock : ... : Black Orpheus Amphitheater
Black Orpheus wanders up the large hindquarters of Solar Slab, culminating in a giant arcing right-facing corner that has by far the best climbing on the route. The route is long, but much of the climbing is easy and a fair bit of it is mediocre. Two stars is generous, but it makes for a pretty fun adventure with a little bit of challenging route-finding and more commitment (due to the wnadering line and lack of fixed anchors) than many long routes in Red Rocks. Hike past the main face of Sol...[more]   Browse More Classics in Nevada

Photos of Oak Creek Canyon Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: bighorn sheep
bighorn sheep
Rock Climbing Photo: So that's how those waterstreaks get there.  A sum...
So that's how those waterstreaks get there. A sum...
Rock Climbing Photo: Hiking into Oak Creek Canyon.
Hiking into Oak Creek Canyon.
Rock Climbing Photo: Hiking into Oak Creek Canyon.
Hiking into Oak Creek Canyon.
Rock Climbing Photo: The beginning of many an adventure start here.  Oa...
The beginning of many an adventure start here. Oa...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down Oak Creek Canyon.
Looking down Oak Creek Canyon.
Rock Climbing Photo: oak creek canyon on a stormy day
oak creek canyon on a stormy day
Rock Climbing Photo: Taken 2/19/08 from the Solar Slab Terrace.  Beauti...
Taken 2/19/08 from the Solar Slab Terrace. Beauti...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down on the start of solar slab from the t...
Looking down on the start of solar slab from the t...
Rock Climbing Photo: We had a couple burros give as a wake up call whil...
We had a couple burros give as a wake up call whil...
Rock Climbing Photo: Walking into Oak Creek Canyon
Walking into Oak Creek Canyon
Rock Climbing Photo: Oak Creek Canyon from the ol' campground.
Oak Creek Canyon from the ol' campground.

Comments on Oak Creek Canyon Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About