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NW Ridge 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

Type:  Trad, 6 pitches, 1000', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13 [details]
FA: Bob Rears - 1964
Season: May-September
Page Views: 2,674
Submitted By: roberttadina on Oct 29, 2014  with updates from Chuck Burr

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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BETA PHOTO: A Direct Alternate start (80’) bypassed the orig...


I climbed this route with Grover Shipman who has a guide book published called "Mt. Shasta Area Rock Climbing" that has proven more than useful. This route was one of the best I had done in the area. It was exposed, scenic, a mix of shade and sun. And some of the scariest rock I have climbed on(though nothing blew out or fell so that was nice)
the route starts out with a few exposed moves on pretty solid rock, which was nice because the first placement was 15 feet up. shortly after that you get to a belay next to a small tree. next pitch works up a large slab and through some loose rock to a good area for a cam nest. next is the no reverse traverse which felt about 5.6 or 5.5 which came as a surprise because most guide books said 5.0(perhaps we were off route)the next pitch was on a giant flake that at the top started to flex. with some more climbing and chimneying you gain a nice ledge. next pitch starts off straight forward but moves into a well protected crux that felt about 5.9 the next pitch is a simple but long route to the castle dome summit


the route can be found by approaching castle dome via the dome trail. once at the dome head north down a narrow gully about 400-500 feet long. descend the gully to the end where it drops off suddenly and you will see a dike on your right just opposite of a big tree. that is the start of the first pitch. Descend via the SE "walk-off" don't be ashamed to rope up for descent as the exposure can be quite interesting.


a full alpine rack to 4" was fully utilized. there were no bolt anchors but the crux had two closely spaced bolts for good protection

Photos of NW Ridge Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: pitch 2
pitch 2
Rock Climbing Photo: Alternate Direct start a short way down the gully ...
BETA PHOTO: Alternate Direct start a short way down the gully ...
Rock Climbing Photo: climbers at base of potato chip flake. Photo taken...
BETA PHOTO: climbers at base of potato chip flake. Photo taken...
Rock Climbing Photo: Standing atop "potato chip flake"
Standing atop "potato chip flake"
Rock Climbing Photo: climber finishing end of pitch 5
climber finishing end of pitch 5
Rock Climbing Photo: A few pitches up
A few pitches up
Rock Climbing Photo: At the top of the first pitch looking towards the ...
At the top of the first pitch looking towards the ...

Comments on NW Ridge Add Comment
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By splitclimber
Oct 30, 2014

isn't it a 5.8 in the guide or is that a sandbag in your opinion?
on the list to do. thanks for posting it.
By roberttadina
Oct 30, 2014

Guide books do claim this route as a 5.8+ but it felt a bit more than that at the crux. But i'm sure some of the locals would disagree
By Scott Becker
From: Medford, Oregon
Mar 3, 2015
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

The rock is far from perfect but this is a nice route that goes directly to the top of the dome. Worth doing. Check out Grover's book for a good topo and description.
By Lana dude
May 31, 2015

Setting and position are spectacular. Climbing is good on pitch 4 & 5, which is when hikers spotted us across drainage and nicely shared pics. The route has drawbacks. All of Pitch 1 has very little pro (anchor in your belayer). On higher pitches take care to choose the cracks that would keep their shape in a fall. The down climb is involved and at trickiest spot exposed. Keep in mind rappeling or belaying, especially if first time descending summit. Fun adventure if you've got a spicy palette!

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