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Eldorado Peak
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NW Ice Couloir 

NW Ice Couloir 


Type:  Ice, Alpine, 1000', Grade III
Original: AI2 Steep Snow [details]
FA: Dan Cauthorne and Bill Pilling
Page Views: 634
Submitted By: Jeff Hebert on May 8, 2015

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Ryan Hoover at the Eldorado Dean Col rappel


Head straight up the couloir, starting at about 7,800 feet and finishing at about 8,800 feet. Depending on conditions, it may be a pure snow/neve climb, it may have some ice, or it may have some mixed climbing.

The route finishes just below the knife-edge ridge, which is gained and followed to the summit.

Descend the standard East Ridge.


From the classic East Ridge, hold at about 8,100 feet on a traverse to the North side of the mountain to an obvious notch between the North Ridge and the first rock spire. Find a rappel station and continue down to the West-facing cirque. Head South to the route.


Ice screws, pickets, and a small rock rack, depending on conditions

Photos of NW Ice Couloir Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: A Wolverine lives in the area! Followed us for mil...
A Wolverine lives in the area! Followed us for mil...
Rock Climbing Photo: 10/30/16

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By michal
From: Everett WA
Nov 17, 2016

Very conditional when we did it there were a couple mixed sections as well as vertical powder digging. Horrible spindrift! Really happy to have compass in summit white out.

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