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Forbidden Peak
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East Ridge Direct T 
North Ridge T 
NW Face T 
West Ridge T 
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NW Face 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 1200', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Fred Beckey and Ed Cooper on July 15, 1959
Page Views: 943
Submitted By: Jeff Hebert on Jul 27, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: Approaching the route from the North Ridge


Fred Beckey calls it "an exceptional climb of purity." Blake Herrington says "The Northwest Face is Forbidden's best route."

Once at the base of the route (see approach beta below), solo or simul-climb steep, somewhat loose 4th to low-5th class for about 500 feet to the start of a knife-edge section.

Cross the knife-edge ridge at 5.6 and then up through the crux (staying true to the ridge and stemming as well as crack climbing) at 5.8.

Once the ridge blends into the face, head up and left through a wide chimney feature where the rock steepens and then continue up low-5th to 5.6 terrain on good rock to the summit.

Descend the West Ridge or East Ledges.


Two approach options exist—via Sharkfin Col and the Boston Glacier over the North Ridge or via the West Ridge notch.

Most parties seem to opt for the Sharkfin Col approach, which is longer at 6-7 hours (versus ~4), but less hazardous and requires only one rope.


Double rack .3 to 2
Single set of nuts
Light axe and crampons

Photos of NW Face Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Finishing the knife-edge section
Finishing the knife-edge section

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