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North East Face, Regular Route T 
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NW Face: Above The Sleeping City T 

NW Face: Above The Sleeping City 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b M1 R

Type:  Trad, Mixed, Alpine, 10 pitches, 1000', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b M1 Mod. Snow R [details]
FA: FA: Jim Dockery and Hooman Aprin, 1975 FRA: James Garrett and Michael Franklin, 14 May 1983
Season: Winter until late Spring
Page Views: 1,883
Submitted By: James Garrett on Aug 30, 2006

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This wall, when viewed from the canyon floor, reveals many options. We climbed quite a direct line to the top as viewed from below. Connecting couloirs and snow ramps and passing over rotten rock bands, we slowly made our way to the summit. It felt much more challenging and alpine (read poor rock!) than the East Face. We began in the early morning darkness and we descended in the dark! Maybe we were just slow, it felt steep, though! We both really enjoyed having completed this alpine climb, as I recall...we shuddered at the thought of setting up rappels and retreating. It was great day in the mountains. But many stout trees can be found which provide ample stances.


We descended the West ridge to a low angle couloir and the thrash back to the the Big Cottonwood Canyon Road.


We used pitons, snow pickets, and some nuts and cams. Take a lot of slings. Crampons were worn the entire climb and we both used two tools.

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By bsmoot
Jan 14, 2008

Thanks for posting this route James. Don't think you guys were slow...the NW Face is a big climb for a one day winter ascent.

A little history here...Jim Dockery and Hooman Aprin climbed this face in the winter of 1975.

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