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NW Pinnacle
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NW Buttress T 
SW Buttress T 

NW Buttress 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: George Zack, Jeff Thomas, Bill Coe - 2015
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 301
Submitted By: George Zack on Apr 10, 2015

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George just off the ground on the FA. Photo by Jef...

Description 

The most obvious, striking line up the tallest face of the NW Pinnacle.

P1: Clip two bolts up a 5.5 face and pull a cruxy, but short, diagonal fingertips crack to a large ledge. Continue up the fun and sustained 5.8 dihedral looming above, then romp up a series of small ledges and easier climbing to the spacious belay ledge. Belay from small tree and #3 Camalot. 120', 5.8

P2: Head for the short, left-facing, offwidth dihedral above and to the right. Protection can be had before reaching the OW by looking slightly around the corner on your right. The cruxy offwidth is easier than it looks, thanks to hidden face holds and secure rests. It protects well with a tight #4 Camalot in a parallel slot deep in the crack about halfway up. Once the angle eases, leave the offwidth for the crack system to your left, and continue up this easy stretch until you are standing on a couple of large chockstones. Traverse to the right past a bolt (5.6), gain the ledge, then work back left to belay from the tree directly above the bolt. 80', 5.8+

The descent is a quick walk off the East side: Push through the belay tree, unrope, and hike up the dirty ledge to gain the true summit, then head down.

Location 

Starts up the obvious face just right of the toe of the true NW buttress of the Pinnacle. Get there by skiing down the white talus slope from the Central Pinnacle and then working right (north).

Protection 

Single Camalots from .3-.75, two #3's, and a #4. A set of nuts (+ a set of offsets recommended) and some slings for constrictions. Optional .2 and a second #4 cam.


Photos of NW Buttress Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: NW Buttress route topo. Photo by Jeff Thomas
BETA PHOTO: NW Buttress route topo. Photo by Jeff Thomas

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