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YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Tim Fisher, Jim Overby 1981
Page Views: 3,813
Submitted By: Alexander Blum on Jul 8, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (41)
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Climber moving into crux 1.


The guidebook lists this as two pitches, but I think that would be a really silly way to climb this. Long runners at the very beginning keep rope drag nonexistent.

Start on the ledge that Nutsweat, Death Wish, and Reckless abandon all begin on. Negotiate a short crack/weakness through a bulge, when you pop up over this head up and left through a beautiful green corner. Near the top traverse left into a right facing corner (crux). Continue traversing left out the stupendous overhangs towards the fixed anchor.

Gear is adequate but you could go for a pretty big ride in one or two spots. Belay your second up from the anchor, one 60m rope will just get you down.


North End


Small nuts help at the high crux.

Photos of Nutsweat Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: View from being lowered, near the anchor. Fairly l...
BETA PHOTO: View from being lowered, near the anchor. Fairly l...
Rock Climbing Photo: Climber wrapping up at the top of Nutsweat, just p...
Climber wrapping up at the top of Nutsweat, just p...
Rock Climbing Photo: View up at the traverse to the finish from the gre...
BETA PHOTO: View up at the traverse to the finish from the gre...

Comments on Nutsweat Add Comment
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By sanz
From: Raleigh, NC
Nov 8, 2011

One pitch is the way to go. One 60 gets you down perfectly. The variety and exposure on this route are unreal. Find gear in the dihedral, crux into the traverse, and head out into a jug haul that, in my opinion, beats the Zoo View roof any day. I can't say enough good things about this route. Do it.
By Matt Westlake
From: Durham, NC
Nov 23, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13

One more thing to note - the arete is pretty mild climbing but gear is a bit sparse and there are sections of loose rock so don't get too casual because the climbing is easy. In particular near the top there is a thin curtain of rock that is tempting to use probably a bit too much. Still, a good route worth your time.
By Neil Rankin
From: Winston-Salem, NC
Apr 11, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Climbing is just OK, but it gets an extra star for the exposure.
By smurray47
Sep 19, 2016
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Great climb. Get on it! I don't think it deserves a PG 13 rating. Gear seemed good throughout. Easy ramp start heading up and right leads to a low-crux going back left to get into the corner. Make sure to find the pro here - small cam will protect the move.

The corner climbing is fun and pretty chill, with enough gear to keep you comfortable. High crux is indeed at top of corner moving left into roof system. A couple nuts should protect the crux just fine and once it's done there are some bomber hand-size placements to be made.

Then its just the epic finish to the rings. As others have said, watch rope drag and just do it as one pitch. Enjoy.
By dave Hause
From: carrboro, nc
Aug 1, 2017
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

What is 5.9+? Think of this as a 5.10a. Bring your full set of stoppers and tricams.

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