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Nuts or hexes
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Feb 29, 2016
I'm new to outdoor climbing and am trying to build a solid rack for all sort of top rope anchors. I will not be setting a top rope just off these nuts or hexes but just to incorporate them. What do you guys suggest nuts or hexes which brands and what sizes are most commonly used so I know where to start buying equipment. Thanks much guys any info or photos of different setups will be greatly appericated CRAG-list-KILLA
Joined Feb 27, 2016
60 points
Feb 29, 2016
Unless the cracks are typically large (>2 inches), I'd say skip the hexes and get a full set of nuts. Black Diamond Stoppers are the standard, and I'd suggest that's what you should get. If nothing else, their popularity makes it easy to replace them singly as they get lost. OTOH if cracks are large, but a partial set of hexes (any brand, I'm partial to the originals, BD). Get the biggest 6 sizes or so. Gunkiemike
Joined Jul 29, 2009
2,628 points
Feb 29, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Belaying 2nd (or was it 3rd? 4th?) on Turk's Head ...
If you had to choose between nuts or hexes, I'd say nuts, but hexes can be great for TR setups. I would take a hex placement over anything else on TR, as direction of pull shouldn't be an issue and they are rock solid. Nuts will be much more useful if you decide to lead later. Ted Pinson
From Chicago, IL
Joined Jul 11, 2014
178 points
Feb 29, 2016
Thanks guys for the time to reply!! CRAG-list-KILLA
Joined Feb 27, 2016
60 points
Feb 29, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Pratt's Crack - Pine Creek Canyon
Nuts for sure. I have a set of BD stoppers, DMM offsets and DMM wallnuts. If I was to get one set it would be the DMM offsets. Comes with the standard sizes and they have so many options depending on the orientation. BD is good but if I had to choose one set that's what it would be. DaEyeDoc
Joined Feb 22, 2015
5 points
Feb 29, 2016
CRAG-list-KILLA
Joined Feb 27, 2016
60 points
Mar 1, 2016
Both! Hexes in sizes bigger than the largest nut. Bill Lawry
From New Mexico
Joined Apr 16, 2006
1,718 points
Mar 1, 2016
nuts Mike broad
From Flagstaff, AZ
Joined Oct 19, 2010
129 points
Mar 1, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Standing atop Mt. Wilson at Red Rocks after comple...
A set of offset nuts are about as useful as you can get; you'll be able to use them in most trad climbing situations. A great hex placement, however, is as bomber as it gets! William Thiry
From Lakewood, CO
Joined Dec 1, 2011
103 points
Administrator
Mar 1, 2016
William Thiry wrote:
A set of offset nuts are about as useful as you can get; you'll be able to use them in most trad climbing situations. A great hex placement, however, is as bomber as it gets!

Offset aluminum nuts, sure. Offset brasses, less so. Brasses are specialty pieces mostly for aid climbing and free climbing in areas with pin scars. Just wanted to point that out for the OP.

Personally, I would recommend a set of standard, plain double curve nuts, unless the OP is trying to protect wide cracks, in which hexes might be more useful. Just get some cheap double curves. I dont own offset aluminum nuts and I can only think of one trad free climb (out of hundreds) that I regretted not bringing my offset cams and/ or offset RPs. In all other cases, my generic ABC double curve nuts have worked perfectly fine and they are cheap.

Since the OP is just using them to build TR anchors, my recommendation would be to look at price first. Get whatever is cheapest. ABC and Omega Pacific sell some cheap but great nuts. I've been using mine for nearly 8 years and they still work great.
20 kN
From Hawaii
Joined Feb 2, 2009
1,219 points
Mar 1, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: After having paid the iconic and run-out Entrance ...
Offsets are useful in J Tree, and to some extent in Red Rocks. Howard.
From Irvine, CA
Joined Sep 10, 2010
1,585 points
Administrator
Mar 2, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: There's more than one use for an Ice Hammer. Lake ...
It all depends upon what kind of rock - I would never TR off wires at Stoney Point. But big hexes yes, better than cams in my opinion, in the right placement - used them often at Stoney.

BTW - Nuts is a generic term for all passive metal protection devices, whether they be wires or hexes etc. Comes from first using machine nuts with their threads removed and a nylon loop tied through instead of a pocket full of different sizes pebbles which had to be fiddled into cracks with mixed success.
Chris Owen
From Big Bear Lake
Joined Jan 1, 2002
10,767 points
Mar 2, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: ...
Of the two, "Nuts" will most likely be used more often. Locker
From Yucca Valley, CA
Joined Oct 13, 2002
2,541 points
Mar 2, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: This is a novel auto blocking belay device.  I thi...
Tri-cams of course. Get some of the 6 and 7 boat anchors! Rick Blair
From Denver
Joined Oct 16, 2007
376 points
Mar 2, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: yukon
Lots of good advice here. I have gone without active pro for all of my top ropes and leads (which have all been easy climbs) to this point. I agree that nuts will be more useful if you start to lead but I do love my hexes. There's just something about the feel of a bomber hex, esp on the DL quartzite I'm used to climbing on. I just got my first set of C4s and I'm excited to place them and know they will be a huge improvement on lead but I've done OK on my passive pro and actually love hexes for TR. I love my offset alloys, as well. Anyway, not every place takes the same types of pro and preference of gear is going to be influenced by geography.

MORE COWBELL!
Seth Jones
Joined Feb 17, 2015
39 points
Mar 2, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: ...
"Get some of the 6 and 7 boat anchors!"

LOL!
Locker
From Yucca Valley, CA
Joined Oct 13, 2002
2,541 points
Mar 3, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: This is a novel auto blocking belay device.  I thi...
I keep a 7 under my bed, don't even think of breaking into my F'n house. Rick Blair
From Denver
Joined Oct 16, 2007
376 points
Administrator
Mar 3, 2016
Chris Owen wrote:
Comes from first using machine nuts with their threads removed and a nylon loop tied through instead of a pocket full of different sizes pebbles which had to be fiddled into cracks with mixed success.

Source? I am curious about this.
20 kN
From Hawaii
Joined Feb 2, 2009
1,219 points
Mar 3, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: profile pic
20kN, check out this awesome site.
needlesports.com/content/nuts-...

As for the OPs question, if I was getting hexes again, I'd probably get DMMs Torque Nuts. Only 4 sizes, but they have a neat extending sling built in, and a color scheme that goes with BDs C4 cams.
Ben Stabley
From Portland, OR
Joined Sep 7, 2014
140 points
Mar 3, 2016
I'm posting this here as it may be beneficial to the OP. I'm sure it's been gone into somewhere on MP but I cant find it-Can anyone comment on the pluses and minuses to slung vs. wired hexes? I'd like to pick up a set, mostly because I just love climbing gear, but no one I climb with carries/owns hexes.

As a side note I really like my DMM Walnuts, they seem to place more easily and more securely than my BD Stoppers.
Mike13
Joined Dec 11, 2013
11 points
Mar 3, 2016
I have a mix of BD nuts and these Metolius nuts
metoliusclimbing.com/curve_nut...

I like having two shapes and usually only double up on the middle sizes
NickO
From Utah
Joined Apr 11, 2011
36 points
Administrator
Mar 3, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: There's more than one use for an Ice Hammer. Lake ...
20 kN wrote:
Source? I am curious about this.


Here you go, I'm sure there are other sources, this is the first one I found on Google. How did I know about this? Well I started climbing in the UK in the late 70's and knew people who told me stories, plus a couple of them even had such ridiculous things on their "rack". When I first started, being cash poor but having access to a machine shop I'd make my own nuts, here's a picture of one:


Rock Climbing Photo: My "Number 2".
My "Number 2".
Chris Owen
From Big Bear Lake
Joined Jan 1, 2002
10,767 points
Mar 3, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: High Exposure
Mike13 wrote:
I'm posting this here as it may be beneficial to the OP. I'm sure it's been gone into somewhere on MP but I cant find it-Can anyone comment on the pluses and minuses to slung vs. wired hexes?


Here's a few

Wired:
+ Wires are durable
- When wire does wear out you bin the (still perfectly good) hex
+ Stiff wire can extend your reach for placement of small sizes (larger sizes are too heavy for this)
- Stiff wire can cause hex to dislodge due to rope movement
- Stiff wire may prevent camming in smaller sizes
+ Wired hexes may be easier to rack

Slung:
+ Easy to replace sling/webbing when it wears out. The metal hex basically lasts forever.
- Floppy sling does not allow extended reach for placement
wivanoff
Joined Mar 3, 2012
409 points
Mar 3, 2016
Hexes, Big ones slung, small ones wired, if the center is hollow it should probably be slung save for maybe the first one or two hollow sizes. I personally like small hexes, and my biggest gripe with the big ones is time to place which isn't such an issue for just anchors.
Nuts, buy cheap ones they are mostly all the same. I have a mixed batch and i've used the DMM and original HB alloy offsets, I do like them, but I generally find placing 'normal' nuts more intuitive. Also since top rope anchors generally don't rely on funky placements or pin scars, the main advantages of offset nuts/cams are sort of nullified.
Derrick
From Bozeman
Joined Oct 31, 2015
7 points
Mar 3, 2016
Rick Blair wrote:
I keep a 7 under my bed, don't even think of breaking into my F'n house.

Lightweight.
A 10 or 11 is far better and gets the job done with fewer blows.
Marc801
From Sandy, Utah
Joined Feb 25, 2014
64 points
Mar 3, 2016
To everyone advocating nuts only and not hexes.....

The OP wrote:
"...trying to build a solid rack for all sort of top rope anchors."

I agree, nuts are great....for cracks up to large fingers, which kinda screws you when you encounter a hand crack.

Doesn't anyone actually read the question anymore?
Marc801
From Sandy, Utah
Joined Feb 25, 2014
64 points


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