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Echo Rock - South Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Belgian Chongo T 
British Airways T 
Feets Don't Fail Me Now T 
London Calling T 
Moment's Notice T 
My Idea of Fun S 
Nuts are for Men Without Balls T 
Pope's Crack T 
Pope's Crack, Direct Finish T 
Primal Scream T 
Raked over the Coles T 
Roof, the T 
Rule Britannia T 
Sole Fusion S 
Sonic and the Hot Dog Water S 
Street Sweeper S 
Swept Away T 
T.S. Special T 
Tucker-Powell T 

Nuts are for Men Without Balls 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13 [details]
FA: Charles Cole, 1983
Page Views: 1,567
Submitted By: Roger Linfield on Sep 12, 2006

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In a large alcove on the south face of Echo Rock, starting near the ground, are three closely space crack routes. This is the center one. It's one of the warmest places in the park on a sunny morning. The climb is a hand and fist crack, with poor protection. I can imagine the route name was Charles' response to a belayer asking why he wasn't placing any nuts.


a standard rack, but there aren't many good placements

Photos of Nuts are for Men Without Balls Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: start
Rock Climbing Photo: entering the pod halfway up
entering the pod halfway up
Rock Climbing Photo: "Nuts Are For Men Without Balls". Photo ...
BETA PHOTO: "Nuts Are For Men Without Balls". Photo ...

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By C Miller
From: CA
Sep 14, 2006
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Did this a long time ago, but seem to recall the pro was decent.
By JoshuaTreeRunner David
From: Los Angeles
Oct 13, 2008

I thought this crack was quite fun. It can be runout if you dont have a few large pieces, otherwise it protects quite well. There are hidden holds that reveal themselves at just the right time if you look for them in unexpected places. No feet jamming required and lots of hand holds or handjams available.
By Rob Donnelly
From: Riverside, CA
Feb 25, 2013

Beware: Both Vogel's "Classic Joshua Tree Routes and Bouldering" and Miramontes's "Joshua Tree" guidebooks show this route on the crack to the right of this one. The description is correct in Vogel's but the photo is incorrect in both. We got on Primal Scream (5.10d) thinking it was this climb. "NO way this is 5.8!"
By mnjsan
Feb 13, 2017

Can't say I ageee with the R rating. I thought the gear placements were plentiful. I brought nuts and .5-3. If you have a 4 bring it as well.

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