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Nuts and Bolts 

YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 260'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
New Route: Yes
Season: Spring, Fall, Summer early day
Page Views: 1,928
Submitted By: Jimbo on May 12, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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Scott Connors pulls the 2nd bulge on pitch two.


Pitch one, 5.9 trad, pitch two, 160 feet of 5.10 sport with 3 good bulges along the way.


right side of super secret area


Small rack to 3 inches, 15 draws

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By Braxtron
From: ...
May 19, 2008
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

One of the best moderate multi-pitch climbs on Lemmon. Thanks guys!!
By 1Eric Rhicard
Jun 29, 2008

I would bring a few more draws for the long second pitch or you will be down climbing to get them from the bolts below. If you break the last pitch in two you don't need as many draws.
By Paul Davidson
Mar 23, 2009
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

Absolutely stellar climb.
I doubt though that the 5.9 first pitch is for the struggling 5.9 leader. Bit of a run out at the crux and if you miss, or blow the pro, well... it's going to hurt.

Second pitch is just a lot of fun with 3 (?) bulges and moderate stuff in between.
By Jon Ruland
From: Tucson, AZ
Nov 22, 2015

true words paul. you can, however, easily bail onto the 5.9 bolted route to the left of it if you get sketched.

as is the norm for mount lemmon, the crack looks terrible but it climbs a lot better than you would expect. cool jamming and stemming up high.
By 1Eric Rhicard
Dec 23, 2016

Climbed Castle as an alternate start as there was a lot of water at the crux of this climb. Castle was wet as well but I had a big fat bolt protecting me as I did the crux. This is a really great two pitch route if you can place pro. If not, wet or dry do Castle. The second pitch will make you forget the first sport pitch isn't nearly good as the second.

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