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Shipyard Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
All Tuckered Out S 
Humpbacks in Love S 
Jellyfish and Condoms T,S 
Not So Sweet T 
Nutra-Sweet S 
Shipyard rock T 
Shipyard Rock Variation T 
Spilling Waves S 
Surging Wave S 
Tsunami S 
Tuck and Roll S,TR 
Waves S 
Waves (Variation) S 
Unsorted Routes:


YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Mike Lewis & Vern Phinney 1987
Page Views: 918
Submitted By: Brent Kertzman on Mar 17, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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Dobbe on this sweet route

Check NPS for Closures


A beautiful wind-sculpted, boiler plated vertical face. Start a bit left on the obvious weakness and work up and right 25' to the first bolt. Continue up stellar rock passing more bolts on the way to the summit. There are a couple of different lines to climb past the first several bolts.

There also is a new direct start that climbs past a couple of newer bolts and is mid to upper 5.11. It might be wise to stick clip the first bolt on this variation. F.A. TNA Yahne


The easiest approach is from the old road on the west side of the Shipyard. Scramble up the corridor between Hornet's Nest & Shipyard. Nutra-Sweet is located on the NW face of the Shipyard, about 60' up on the right side of the corridor. Less than five minutes from the car.


5 or 6 Bolts, Medium Stopper or Small Tri-Cam.
7 or 8 Bolts with the Direct Start, Medium Stopper or Small Tri-Cam.
Bolted anchors.

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By harrison t
From: Black Hills, SD
May 21, 2013
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

The direct start is really fun and kind of bouldery, definitely nice to have a stick clip for the first bolt. Don't shy away from this route if you have nothing more than a set of draws, can be done with out gear.
By Travis Rypkema
Jun 10, 2013
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

A nu start.... to the classic nutra-sweet.
By Isaac Duncan
Jul 3, 2015

Climbed the direct start to this the other day, definitely stick clip the first! I didn't, and ended up going head over heels down the approach gulley after blowing a move down low. That being said, when I finally did stop whining and got up there, what an awesome route!! I protected the top with a 0 tcu, although a brass nut would probably have worked just as well. If you're in the area, and climb the grade, I wouldn't miss this line

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