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Cap Rock - North Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anniversary Special T 
Ayatollah, The T 
Black Ice T 
Bush Eviction T 
Circus T 
Circus, Circus T 
Event Horizon T 
False Lieback T 
False Prophet T 
Horror-zontal Terror-verse T 
Icy, But Not Too Dicey T,TR 
Lil Squirt S 
Nutcracker T 
Retirement T 
Space Odyssey T 
Thin Ice TR 

Nutcracker 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.2 French: 3 Ewbanks: 8 UIAA: II ZA: 8 British: D 2c [details]
FA: Rob Stahl, Dave Stahl, John Wolfe & Mona Wolfe, March 1971
Page Views: 2,392
Submitted By: Blitzo on May 19, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (43)
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Shannon leading Nutcracker.

Description 

This climbs a crack to a chimney about 20' right of "Event Horizon".

Protection 

Standard rack.


Photos of Nutcracker Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Good sidelighting accentuates the cracks on the ro...
BETA PHOTO: Good sidelighting accentuates the cracks on the ro...
Rock Climbing Photo: Anne setting up a belay for my 10 year old son Emi...
Anne setting up a belay for my 10 year old son Emi...
Rock Climbing Photo: Anne Carrier leading Nutcracker.
Anne Carrier leading Nutcracker.
Rock Climbing Photo: Ten year old Emil on the lower portion of Nutcrack...
Ten year old Emil on the lower portion of Nutcrack...
Rock Climbing Photo: "Nutcracker". Photo by Blitzo.
BETA PHOTO: "Nutcracker". Photo by Blitzo.

Comments on Nutcracker Add Comment
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By Doug99
Dec 9, 2010
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

No way this is 5.2. 5.5 easily.

A variation is the "Birthing Canal". Go to the back of the cave at the top chimney and climb straight up. Don't try this if you aren't skinny.
By Rodger Raubach
Mar 12, 2011
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

Excellent beginner climb with my 10 year old son; varied in nature and not too hard. Short but fun. By the way, I also agree with Doug99 about the grade--a bit stiffer than a 5.2 on the lower portion of the route. Maybe not 5.5, but at least 5.4.
By Joseph Stover
From: Batesville, AR
Apr 6, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

A C4 #6 can be slid up the wide crack at the top for a ways (but the rock walls of the crack are a bit grungy). I thought the crux was the short section just before gaining the traverse crack to the ledge below the wide crack. The wide crack was tricky and more of a mind game, but the holds were there for the most part. The lower section is easy and fun, great for a novice leader to climb, place pro, and downclimb if they have a more experienced partner to climb up it afterward and evaluate their gear and finish out the climb.
By Mary Moser
From: Joshua Tree, CA
May 22, 2011
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13

The first half of the climb was a really nice crack and the traverse was fun too. However, this climb is definitely harder than 5.2 and the chimney section above may be scary for a beginner due to the lack of pro. My friend Shannon did an excellent job keeping her head about her as she ran out the chimney. She did use the equivalent of a #5 Camalot at the start of the chimney, but above that there was no more pro.
By verticalbound
Apr 2, 2013
rating: 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c

Lol consensus is spot on, took my girlfriend on all the begginer routes and trashcan so I got a solid feel for lower grades, soloed this behind someone cleaning it and we both agree 5.3 is solid.
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: Big Bear Lake
Nov 15, 2014
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13

I didn't go in the chimney, I climbed the righthand rib, with small cam in a horizontal crack on the right for protection. This way I felt had a 5.8 move.

It's a good climb.
By Bob Hutchinson
Mar 24, 2017
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R

It is unfortunate that neither Vogel or Miramontes mention that the route rating is based on tunneling through to the back of the upper offwidth. Don't be a fool like I was, get seduced by the easy number, and attempt to solo this route via the offwidth as you may have a NDE (near death experience) like myself. Once committed to the offwidth it would be difficult to back off and finishing it is likely at least 5.9+ or harder.
By Jonathan Newman
Apr 9, 2017
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13

Don't do what I did and lead this climb as your second trad lead. It is definitely harder than 5.2, and once you hit the ledge about halfway through there are no more gear placements unless you have something really big ~6".

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