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YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Joe Cote, D Arey, w. freeman 1969 FFA Henry Barber, B Anderson 9/22/72
Page Views: 11,477
Submitted By: lee hansche on Feb 20, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (123)
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Henry Barber on Nutcracker, 2001.


Many find this climb to feel more 5.10ish but respect must go to Henry Barber and others for not bitching about grades and leading it with just nuts.

This beautiful crack ranges from fingers to wide hands and is stellar from top to bottom. The crux comes at about the 1/3 mark and involves thin fingers and/or long reaches to good locks. Many folks find the route to be a pumpy one If you are pumped at the top, the last moves of the route will feel a bit cruxy too.


This is the farthest left perfect crack climb at the Barber Wall.


Lots of nuts (hence the name) and cams for the new-schoolers.

Actually, the new-schoolers comment is just for history. Do bring cams too.

Make sure to bring a #3 or #3.5 if its your first time on the route.

Photos of Nutcracker Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Greg Jackson in good jams on 'Nut Cracker' 5.9+/5....
Greg Jackson in good jams on 'Nut Cracker' 5.9+/5....
Rock Climbing Photo: Greg at the top of 'Nutcracker', Cathedral Ledge, ...
Greg at the top of 'Nutcracker', Cathedral Ledge, ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Nutcracker
BETA PHOTO: Nutcracker

Comments on Nutcracker Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 20, 2017
By Chris Duca
From: Havertown, PA
Feb 26, 2007

Whether you are a new or old school leader, a couple of large Cams (#3, #3.5) are a good idea at the off-hands bulge near the top.
By john strand
From: southern colo
Jul 12, 2008

Other than Lichen Delight, by FAR the best crack climb on the Barber wall.
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Jul 13, 2008

I dont know about "by FAR" but its a contender for sure... Chicken Delight is my fave in this section (again, other than Lichen Delight)... any other votes?
By CTYankee
May 5, 2009

This will test your jamming technique. Tape up if jamming is not your specialty. The rock is very rough. You can easily spot those who have done battle with nutcracker by looking at their hands.
By Mike Thompson
From: Manchester NH
May 5, 2009

wicked wanna get on this route! next time im up there deffinately going down! .... at least attempting at going down :)
By john strand
From: southern colo
Sep 30, 2009

Chicken Suscks ! Almost as poor as Double V or Layton's
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Sep 30, 2009

haha... wow... seriously?
By Chalu Kim
Jul 31, 2011

My partner and I agree this is the best route ever. #4 was useful.
By hasan Adil
From: portland,me
Aug 27, 2011

Up to the bulge, it feels more face climbing with a finger lock thrown in here and there. There are plenty of the feet with an occasional need to cam your foot. Chicken Delight feels more like a pure crack climbing experience.
By Peter Lewis
From: Bridgton, Maine
May 22, 2012

In Jerry Handren's new guidebook for the North Conway area (SO MUCH NEW STUFF--available as of late May 2012) he gave Nutcracker the grade of .10a. Been waiting for that for 30 years. Thanks, Jerry! Now, if he'd only stuck .9 on Pine Tree Eliminate...
By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
May 22, 2012

Peter, great comment. 5.9 for Pine Tree will never happen :)
By Matt Desenberg
From: North Berwick, ME
Nov 22, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Such a good route!
By Peter Lewis
From: Bridgton, Maine
Apr 28, 2014

Hahaha, Peter. Then how about 8+ for Pine Tree (wink, wink).
By stephen arsenault
Jun 7, 2015

I think both Double V, and Chicken Delight are harder the Nutcracker. My fat fingers have difficulty getting into thin cracks.
Nutcracker is my favorite route on that end of the cliff.
By Jon Po
From: Mahwah, NJ
Jul 9, 2015
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

This thing would be a MOTHER of an onsight for a 9+/10- leader! Doubles from .4 to 2 will be nice. Leave the 4 on the ground but save a 2 for up high! Awesome climb!
By Rob Albert
Jul 12, 2017

PSA for anyone looking to get on this climb. Be careful with the gear. My partner pulled 2 pieces and hit the ground from about 30+ feet up. Use good judgment and I suggest using a #2 just before/ at the first crux. I'd hate to have anyone else go through what we went through. I posted a full description of the accident in the North East forum.
By smurray47
5 days ago
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

Just a phenomenal climb. The story about the unfortunate accident had me worried, but this climb really just eats up gear. Its a bit more pumpy than I thought, and loads of fun.
By Hobo Greg
2 days ago
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

If you are six foot or taller, there is no crux, just awesome locks and jams the whole way. Tons of face holds too for feet. Felt 5.8 to me this time around, thanks Indian Creek.

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