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Nut Strut 

YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Clay Stoner (7/24/12)
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 211
Submitted By: Clay Stoner on Jul 25, 2012

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Taylor on an pre-FA day of working Nut Strut

Description 

A right facing dihedral capped with a thin roof traverse. Start off the ground pulling on good edges and jugs to get established on the lower stab. This section can be a little tricky to protect but small cams and stoppers offer ok protection (5.8+). After that slab, the dihedral cuts vertical and offer a wide variety of jams and face holds(5.10). The vertical section is capped with a heartbreaking thin roof traverse(5.11). This section protects well with a #9 bd stopper, so plug and chug.

This route would get more than two stars of it weren't for the bottom slab and its fiddly gear. If this were Ten Sleep, it would have been bolted and probably considered a classic. As it stands, Nut Strut is a good test for 5.11 trad.

Location 

Nut Strut is not on the Barrel proper but is the obvious dihedral to the left of the barrel.

Protection 

Small nuts and cams up to 4 inches(or a #3 c4). Save a #9 for the roof since a cam might block some key jams. Cold shut anchors.


Photos of Nut Strut Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The heartbreaking last moves. Photo taking an inst...
The heartbreaking last moves. Photo taking an inst...

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