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Nut Nut, the Squirrel.  

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Trad, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Umbel, Jenkins. 2014
Page Views: 34
Submitted By: Kevin Umbel on Apr 30, 2017

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Begin 20' left of the route Solitaire at a weakness to gain the slab. Make easier fun moves with good pro aiming up and slightly right for the the bulge. Right before you get to the bulge you'll get a good 2" piece that'll be slightly below your feet while pulling the bulge (crux). If you can find it, there is a grey/purple offset mastercam placement in the bulge that is decent and would keep the fall less tumbly. Pull bulge (awkward) and gain a good stance. Climb up and left for good pro and continue on easier terrain till you find yourself in a short, shallow left facing dihedral. Make harder moves to a roof. Get whatever small pro you can (funky) up under the roof and proceed to high crux. From here grab arced sloping pinch and do a dyno/deadpoint for a jug up and left. It helps to be taller for this upper crux. Punch it to the top of the cliff on good holds and fun moves.


Begin 20' left of Solitaire on a darker slab. Trees at the top for anchor.


Single rack to 2", focus on small cams. I remember a red slider nut and gray mastercam being helpful up under the high roof. Single rack of stoppers. Long slings in the obvious areas.

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