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Nut Job 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, TR
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: JJ Schlick, S. Dyer
Page Views: 2,533
Submitted By: JJ Schlick on Jun 22, 2007  with updates from Bob Hebel

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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Climber Johnny Clark. First outdoor lead. Pink poi...


A great warm up if you are confident at the grade. Follow the obvious crack line in the center of the wall through jugs, and a few jams out featured rock. One bolt up high.


Warm up wall, Center


The protection looks good, but this rock is always suspect. If there is any question about wether or not you could lead this on gear, just don't. Easily toproped from anchors on right...

Photos of Nut Job Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: warm up wall with Nut Job right in the middle
BETA PHOTO: warm up wall with Nut Job right in the middle
Rock Climbing Photo: About to enter the crux section.  Fun route.  Beau...
About to enter the crux section. Fun route. Beau...
Rock Climbing Photo: Roger Frivalt climbing.
Roger Frivalt climbing.

Comments on Nut Job Add Comment
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By Tradiban
Jun 26, 2009
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Best route on this side off the wall. I sewed it up with one set of BD nuts. Placements were generally good but the rock is not bullet hard on this one. There is a distinct crux in the middle and that is where the pro is hardest.

Called "Nutcracker" in Huston's topo.
By Chris treggE
From: Madison, WI
Sep 17, 2009

Next person on this route please bring a small crescent wrench and tighten the nut on the bolt. Otherwise I'll do it next time I'm out there. It's finger tight right now.
By Dylan B.
Aug 5, 2013
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13

The nut is still only finger-tight. Next person to climb this, please bring a wrench and tighten it up.
By Cjib
Jul 8, 2016

Anybody tighten this one? I will be there tomorrow?
By Joel Allen
From: La Crosse, WI
Jul 8, 2016

Hey Cjib. I don't recall a loose nut last time I was there but you never know at the dodge. Maybe be prepared to tighten it yourself if needed. Also, a couple 0.75 C4's are nice to backup the anchor on this guy, it has seen better days. Have fun!

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