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Start by climbing the first few feet of New Year's Crack until you can reach over and clip bolt one on New Year's crack. Once you clip the first bolt, cut straight right over to bolt two. Then continue on balancey moves to join Dr. Hook at the top and finish on the Dr. Hook anchor.
Variation (5.11b): Nurse Hook Direct; instead of starting on the left on New Year's Crack, start under the first bolt and head straight up the face. The variation is only relevant to the first bolt, after that you're on the standard Nurse Hook line. This is probably the easiest 5.11a at The Moke and a great first 5.11 lead.
Sport. Optional #2 Camalot to tame a runout at the top.
By Matt Nelson
From: Pueblo, CO
Feb 25, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
A very fun, well protected route. If you not comfortable leading at this grade, then definitely try it on top rope.