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Nurse Hook  

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 823
Submitted By: 20 kN on Nov 15, 2009

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BETA PHOTO: Nurses Hook

Description 

Start by climbing the first few feet of New Year's Crack until you can reach over and clip bolt one on New Year's crack. Once you clip the first bolt, cut straight right over to bolt two. Then continue on balancey moves to join Dr. Hook at the top and finish on the Dr. Hook anchor.

Variation: Nurse Hook Direct; instead of starting on the left, by New Year's Crack, start more or less under the first bolt and head straight up the face. The variation is only relevant to the first bolt, after that you're on the standard Nurse Hook line.

Protection 

Sport. Optional #2 Camalot to tame a runout at the top.


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By Matt Nelson
From: Pueblo, CO
Feb 25, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

A very fun, well protected route. If you not comfortable leading at this grade, then definitely try it on top rope.