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Cliffs of Insanity
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Are There Rocks Ahead  T 
As you wish T 
Back to the Beginning T 
Broken Brain T 
Brute Squad T 
cave route  T 
Dirty Spaniard, The T 
Fairy Dust T 
Farm Boy T 
Fezzik  T 
Fire Swamp, The T 
Funny Farm T 
Gilder T 
Hor D'oeuvres T 
I've Seen Worse T 
Inconceivable T 
Inigo Montoya T 
Iocane Powder T 
Iron Lady Tower, The T 
jew fro an a boner T 
Jumping the Shark T 
Lobotomy T 
M.C.'s Hammer T 
Man In Black T 
Mawwage T 
Nurse Rachet T 
Nutter T 
Offwidth Your Head T 
Pit of Despair T 
Prepare To Die T 
Prince Humperdinky T 
Princess Buttercup T 
Puzzle Factory T 
R.O.U.S T 
Shrieking Eels T 
Six Fingerd Man T 
Skip to the End T 
Storming the Castle T 
Str8 Jacket T 
To The Pain T 
True Love T 
Unamed 5.10+ (far left hands splitter) T 
Unknown (way right of wiggins finger to fist obtuse corner) T 
Unknown 10+ T 
Unknown 5.10+ (off fingers/thin hands splitter w/ pods) T 
Unknown OW (bombay flare left of wiggins routes) T 
Use Your Head T 
Vinciny T 
Wiggins I T 
Wiggins II T 
Unsorted Routes:

Nurse Rachet 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
Page Views: 1,647
Submitted By: Dustin B on Dec 8, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (22)
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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>


Wide hands to fists in a shallow corner.


Route is on the left side of Cliffs of Insanity, a few hundred feet left of 'Puzzle Factory'. Plaque at base said 11- but seems a bit soft at that grade.


2 #3 camalots, 4 or 5 #4 camalots, bolted anchor.

Photos of Nurse Rachet Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Doug climbing.
Doug climbing.

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By slim
Dec 8, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

yeah, the grade seems way off on this one. our group thought it was in the 5.8 to 5.9 range. when i did this route, there was an old verve chalkbag back in the upper chimney that i bootied. kind of wierd. fun route though.
By Alex Garhart
Nov 4, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Awesome route, mostly #4 friends but 0.5 and 0.75 C4 keep you from running out the low angle 5 easy at the top. With the many rests on small ledges 5.9 or 9+ seems fair.
By Dustin B
From: Steamboat
Nov 7, 2009

I agree, .9 maybe a + if your not great at the wide-ish stuff.I just put the 11- cause thats what the book and the plaque have.
By Timmamok Murphy
From: Durango, CO
Apr 9, 2012
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

This is a little harder than .9 for the Creek. It's not 11- either. 5.10. Some good rests but harder than any 10- I've ever done at the creek.
By Princess Mia
From: Vail
May 6, 2012
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Excellent route but it felt like 5.10 to me. Maybe as I am small. I surely was fighting the whole way up. Also it is BD 3.5 forever. Too big for BD 3 and too small for new #4. Perfect fists for me but it did work me over.
By Martin Harris
Apr 23, 2014

Gear for me was all new #4 and one old #4
By Jeff Scheuerell
Mar 26, 2016

Now 4s fit? WTF is this thing getting bigger?
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Mar 26, 2016

I remember when this thing was #1s!
By doligo
Apr 4, 2016

^^^ MP needs a "Like" button.