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Unsorted Routes:

Nurse Rachet 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,702
Submitted By: Dustin B on Dec 8, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (22)
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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Wide hands to fists in a shallow corner.

Location 

Route is on the left side of Cliffs of Insanity, a few hundred feet left of 'Puzzle Factory'. Plaque at base said 11- but seems a bit soft at that grade.

Protection 

2 #3 camalots, 4 or 5 #4 camalots, bolted anchor.


Photos of Nurse Rachet Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Doug climbing.
Doug climbing.

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By slim
Administrator
Dec 8, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

yeah, the grade seems way off on this one. our group thought it was in the 5.8 to 5.9 range. when i did this route, there was an old verve chalkbag back in the upper chimney that i bootied. kind of wierd. fun route though.
By Alex Garhart
Nov 4, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Awesome route, mostly #4 friends but 0.5 and 0.75 C4 keep you from running out the low angle 5 easy at the top. With the many rests on small ledges 5.9 or 9+ seems fair.
By Dustin B
From: Steamboat
Nov 7, 2009

I agree, .9 maybe a + if your not great at the wide-ish stuff.I just put the 11- cause thats what the book and the plaque have.
By Timmamok Murphy
From: Durango, CO
Apr 9, 2012
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

This is a little harder than .9 for the Creek. It's not 11- either. 5.10. Some good rests but harder than any 10- I've ever done at the creek.
By Princess Mia
From: Vail
May 6, 2012
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Excellent route but it felt like 5.10 to me. Maybe as I am small. I surely was fighting the whole way up. Also it is BD 3.5 forever. Too big for BD 3 and too small for new #4. Perfect fists for me but it did work me over.
By Martin Harris
Apr 23, 2014

Gear for me was all new #4 and one old #4
By Jeff Scheuerell
Mar 26, 2016

Now 4s fit? WTF is this thing getting bigger?
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Mar 26, 2016

I remember when this thing was #1s!
By doligo
Apr 4, 2016

^^^ MP needs a "Like" button.

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