REI Community
Demon Dome
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Number of the Beast T 
Rosemary’s Baby T 

Number of the Beast 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 500'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Vernon, Loomis, Holmes
Page Views: 1,053
Submitted By: Matt N on May 9, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: End of P3, only showing some of the bolts

Description 

P1 – 5-6 bolts, starts near a large pine located on a ledge behind/above you. Traverse in from L to first bolt. 2nd bolt is at a scoop/ledge. It is 5.10 from this bolt to past the 3rd. This can be bypassed by climbing left up the corner, then traversing in to the 4th bolt. Continue up past one more bolt to a flake/crack feature (gear), then past one or two more bolts to the belay. (5.8, ~190’)

P2 – 4 bolts, high first bolt, traverse left after 3rd (5.8, 110’)

P3 – 5 bolts, step left from belay, then follow bolts up, then right – steeper, more sustained, but tighter bolting (2nd bolt is not easily seen from belay ledge). Head up and right to a block in the corner to find a single bolt belay (w/ quicklink, backed up with cams) (5.8, 80’)

P4 - ? continue up/next to corner (we rappelled from P3)

Location 

Located on the right side of the dome.

Descent: rappel the route (two single ropes, then one double if from P3), or continue to top and rap or walk off climbers left.

Protection 

Rack: draws, 3 cams 1-2” (#.5-1 C4) for P1&3, full single set to 3” if continuing up corner (and possibly a nut tool for gardening)


Photos of Number of the Beast Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: P1 appx topo
P1 appx topo

Comments on Number of the Beast Add Comment
Show which comments
By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Jun 28, 2014

At least one of the bolts in the photos appears to be a shiny, new Rawl. Can anyone comment on the quality of fixed gear on this route?
By Matt N
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Jun 28, 2014

The only bolt that gave me pause (besides rapping off the single w/ 1/4" quicklink from P3) was a pro bolt on P2 - it was like an oversized Leeper.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About