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October Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Han Shot First S,TR 
Nuffin' But a Puffin T 
Saskatoon Slab Variation T 
Third Wave S 
Vanishing Act T 

Nuffin' But a Puffin 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Kristofer Fiore, Seth Maciejowski
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 362
Submitted By: Kris Fiore on Oct 31, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: Nuffin' But a Puffin in Blue, Third Wave in red.

Seasonal Raptor Closures for access issues: please review cragvt.org

Description 

Highly recommended. If it cleans up it should become quite popular.

Make a powerful but well protected move to get up to the beautiful right rising crack finding just the right place to pull up. Trust me, there is a sweet spot in there. Dream the crack was 100 feet long before continuing up to the ledge above to place gear conveniently in your best handhold. Work up through and above the right-facing corner to a stance that is currently a bit dirty. Burn straight up finding one small nut on the way. It's possible to chicken out here and traverse left if you get the willies on little gear.

Originally lead to a bolted anchor atop Third Wave which has since been removed, it's now possible to continue straight up to the chain anchors for the top of Saskatoon Slab.

Location 

Ten feet right of Vanishing Act and Left of the line of bolts up the arete. Aim for the right-rising crack.

Protection 

Standard rack, emphasis on finger sized cams. Tricams could be helpful too. Should be solid at the grade, some small runouts but the gear is quality.

Anchors at the top of Saskatoon Slab.


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By Seth Maciejowski
Nov 2, 2015

A good trad lead that will require a bit more work with a wire brush at the top of the right facing corner to be acceptable to most. Way to go Kris for uncovering a pure trad lead at the 82!

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