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Nuclear Waste  

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c R

   
Type:  Trad, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c R [details]
FA: Donald Perry & Michael Burlingame August 1992
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 245
Submitted By: donald perry on Oct 30, 2016

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Partially closed.

Description 

First pitch: Climb a vertical crack that runs on the right side of the scooped out corner. After reaching a stance where the crack turns dark climb left and onto bright orange rock around the corner. From here move up and exit off left and up directly after the first roof.

Var. 1 The Light, 5.12. FA: Frank Tkac & Don Perry, 1979. From here move up and right to turn the roof near its end. Start moving right again to grab the rock that we called The Tongue. Climb the overhanging vertical crack over the second roof to the end of The Fourth Belt.

Location 

Below The Flake, on the only fourth band of rock down from the top where the rock is of high quality. This is on the left side of the cliff below and right of The Escape Hatch. This band of rock we called The Fourth Belt.

Look for a scooped out striped corner facing right 40' right of the start of this cliff.

Protection 

small and very difficult


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By donald perry
From: New Jersey
Mar 3, 2017

The climb is more interesting through the variation in my option.

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