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Nuclear Sponge 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
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Submitted By: Spencer Weiler on Jun 17, 2012

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Description 

12a/b/c whatever. Climb for a long time on cobbles. Its very similar climbing to the 12 climbing on the Minimum Wall. An occasional jug with lots of steep cobble pulling. Great climbing, but nothing that really sets it apart from the other 12's.

Location 

The first 12 on the left as you come around the corner from Hitchhiker, designated #8 in John Ross's beta photo. It has a cobble marked with a "12c/12a to show the 2 routes that start here.

Protection 

15-17 draws with biners on the anchors.


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By bheller
From: SL UT
Sep 10, 2012
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

3/4's up the wall after the last good rest, this route delivers a stopper crux move off an "anti-cobble" or a higher slopey pinch. Feels like hard v4 to me. Perhaps it would be easier in the cooler temps, but its unlikely this will get any easier with more traffic. The post crux finish up the pocketed and blancey blunt arete is great!
By Ryan Stott
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 28, 2013

As mentioned in the previous comment, there is a crux move that has a high slopey pinch. However, today the thumbcatch hold for the bouldery pinch broke, and it is definitely harder now. It still goes with different beta, but the most obvious path is gone
By Lotapowder
From: Sandy
Jun 24, 2016

I just did this route again yesterday to see how hard the "broken hold" has made it. I have always used the anti-cobble and not the slopey pinch, so the difficulty hasn't changed at all. I always thought it was 12c, but it isn't any harder than it was origionally and definitely not 12c/d... Whatever the grade, it is a great route with a pretty hard crux with a pump on. Like Brad said, the section after the crux is awesome!

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